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Sunday, November 20, 2011

Wuling's King of the Mountain and Other Links

Forever Bicycle on display in Taipei by China's dissident artist Ai Weiwei who offers plenty of opinions in regard to his hosts.

  • Fan Yong-yi shows he is King of the Mountain in this weekend's Maxxis Taroko Hill Climb. The word is the weather was rough and the brutal final few kilometers cracked some really tough climbers. A few friends who attended have complained that a lot of the riders simply tossed their feeding bags and energy pouches on the road, which is an insult to one of Taiwan's most beautiful and delicate eco zones. A lot of it may be an effort to look "pro", but when I see this behavior demonstrated by non racers out on the backroads, I am overcome with a sense that it is the result of an education system backed by a government that has spent precious little time teaching Taiwan's citizens to identify with their place.
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Other Links:

  • Why does Amsterdam work so well for cycling?

Failure IS An Option: When Good Rides Go Bad


This past Sunday I had been planning an ambitious ride from Taichung, over Alishan, and back in a day. I know it is gruelingly possible to do and I tried to lay the foundations for a successful ride.

I bought new batteries for my lights. I packed a bag with extra clothing for the colder temps at high altitudes. I brought an extra tire. I packed some fruit and energy gels. I spent three days eating and hydrating for a 7000 calorie day. The mental preparations were there.

I woke up at 2:00am to dress, slather on some chamois cream, down a fruit smoothie and hit the road by 3:00am.

I nervously checked the weather from my deck and it was cold with a lick of rain in the air.

The weather seemed to be improving, so I launched into the darkness and hit about every red light out of town. The lights were annoying enough, but the light drizzle made things even worse. I hoped things would improve, but the just devolved into a general feeling that the day was crapping on my head.

In Taiwan, the hostess bars seem to let out at about 3:00am so the roads are filled with drunks racing for the red lights in more ways than one so pre-dawn traffic can be deadly. I rumbled through puddles as taxies hydroplaned between lanes ferrying girls from the clubs to... wherever they may be heading. I had three close calls with the drunks before rolling up to a police roadblock. Just as I approached, a speeding taxi blasted through the cones at full speed sending the officers running for their cars. The roadblock was for a huge industrial fire that was in progress along the Highway 3, so I was diverted out to another road.

With puddles of water sloshing from my toes to my heels, I decided to swallow my pride and head back home. I really didn't see the fun in riding up a mountain in the rain and spending 250km soaked to the bone. I also did not want to encounter Nantou drunk traffic in the rain. Too many signs that this wasn't the right day.

Sometimes as a rider you need to rely on your intuition to help you make the calls. Although it can be tough, when you start feeling bad about a ride, you don't have to go through with it. Rides are just not fun when you lose the motivation. Rider intuition should not be ignored as it comes from experience. It is always better to live to ride another day.

Just as I neared Taichung city, the rain stopped and the clear morning sky emerged from behind the clouds. I had been following a band of rain toward the mountains. Those are the breaks.

Better luck next weekend.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Taroko Race Weekend: Maxxis Taroko International Hill Climb


This weekend marks the second Maxxis Taroko International Hill Climb on the racing calendar. Several of the guys from my team will be there to compete and I wish them the best of luck.

The Taroko climb is a 90 kilometer mash from sea level, up to the finish at 3275 meters. It is a shame the Taiwan Cup was devoid of this type of climb, which really typifies what makes Taiwanese riding and racing so special.

Sadly, I am opting out of this event as it would mean two days on the road and too much distance from my wife. We are expecting a baby at any time, so I need to be within a speedy cab ride home. All for the better. I will be there in spirit.

The route averages about 4% for most of the way with about three steeper sections before the finale just after Dayuling.

A few hundred meters from the fruit stands in Dayuling, the road pitches up saving the worst for last. It is a seriously demoralizing set of stairs, a dip and another final puker of a climb to the finish.

Of the 250 climbers, about 30 riders will be representing Japan and especially the victims of the earthquake and tsunami which struck Taiwan's northern neighbor last March. The Japanese cyclists would like to use the event to thank the Taiwanese people for their generosity in providing the largest amount of aid to Japan. Each Japanese rider will ride wearing a T-shirt, which reads, "Thank You Taiwan" as a token of appreciation.

Best of luck to all competitors and may the rainy forecast be in error. Jia you!

Monday, November 14, 2011

Phil Gaimon Blogs Taiwan for VeloNews... and gets a little lost.


You can't control how people are going to interpret their experiences... no matter how hard the Taiwan Tourism Bureau tries... and in his blog piece at VeloNews, Phil Gaimon attempts to win an invite back to next year's Taiwan Cup.

We also had some unbelievable training rides. I would never have considered Taiwan as a spot for tourism or cycling until this trip, but the rides there were some of the best I’ve ever done, no joke. Since they actually use bikes for transportation in Taiwan, there are bike lanes everywhere, and out in the country, bike-specific roads connect all the small towns, sometimes through really tight, barely-paved paths, which were fun to rip with tubulars, although Isaac was always scared of cobras on the smaller roads, which is no way to go through life, and not a bad way to die, if you ask me. We didn’t see any snakes (insert dirty joke here), or pandas or monkeys for that matter.

What Gaimon really gets right is the fact that Taiwan is a real cycling treat for the experienced cyclist or cycling adventurer. I try to bear testament to this fact in my weekend blog posts.

Aside from trying to reward his hosts for their largesse, I am bewildered by his comments regarding an infrastructure for bicycle transportation.

For leisure cycling Taiwan has made some great strides. There are great routes for riders of any level of experience and fitness. This is a check in the plus column if my friends at the Tourism Bureau are keeping track. Where Taiwan is really lacking is in its infrastructure for cycling as transportation or utility. The government has failed by and large to think of cycling beyond tourism dollars and weekend entertainment.

  • There are few direct and effective bike paths for regular transportation like commuting.
  • There are few busses equipped to carry bicycles.
  • There are few safe places to store bicycles in or around busy urban hubs, such as shopping centers.
  • The rules for bicycle trains are a labyrinth of official jargon and nonsense.
  • There is no commitment or political will to transform the transportation system into a safe and civil environment for cyclists.

Sadly, with his comments about Taiwanese using bikes for transportation and pandas, I think Mr. Gaimon mistakenly thought he was in China.

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Also:
Don't miss this lovely and lively discussion on Taiwanese vs. Chinese bikes at The Lovely Bike.

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Biking Eastern Taiwan: The Beauty of the Route 193


I receive a lot of requests for information regarding the best routes for traveling Taiwan's Rift Valley. The biggest mistake riders make is in sticking to the Highway 9 and Highway 11. The real secret to biking eastern Taiwan may be the Routes 193 and 197. I had to decline the invitation to ride the route this weekend. Our baby is at 35 weeks and it is just a bridge too far for a ride like that.

So, here is the beautiful picture post and ride report from Michael Turton at The View From Taiwan. Lots of great and useful information here. I am sure he took many of these pictures to hit me in my jealously nerve.

Enjoy!


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The Honeymoon Is Over: Taiwanese pair finish their two-year world tour.

Monday, November 7, 2011

Velo-City Looking For A Taiwanese Perspective

Here is a little info sent over from Jean at Velo-City.

They are putting out a call for papers on international cycling perspectives and I think there are several readers out there who would be ideal to submit some work for this event.

Taiwan can really be a wonderful case study in how countries are grappling with the bicycle in the interests of the private citizen, enterprise, the environment and globalization.

If anyone has an ideas for a paper, please submit an abstract to Velo-City at the link below.

Abstracts are due November 15th


Also:
Here's how they do it in Seoul
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200k of Central Taiwan: Our Best Cycling Routes in a Day


This past Sunday was another tour through some familiar riding territory. It is not that I have never ridden or blogged these routes before, I have. And I have even set up some of the same shots before, with the same angles and frames...but this day belonged to itself. It was different. Actually, they're all different. Each ride is a sketch of the same scenes with often widely different interpretations. Each trip feels unique.

For my Sunday ride I hoped to hit some of my favorite "local" roads, all in a single day. In one massive 200km loop I hoped to connect one vista to the next in a rolling essay devoted to some of what makes central Taiwan such an awesome spectacle for road cycling.

Although 200km may be out of reach for many riders, most of these places can be accessed in a day ride or strung together in a weekend. It makes some of the best, and most accessible cycling adventure in Taiwan.


I started my day with a climb up out of the city on Taichung Route 129 to Hsin She. The 129 can be daunting for a beginner, but after a few miles in the legs it becomes an appetizer to some great sights not far beyond.

This leg of the trip from the Route 129 to the Route 93 has become so routine I forgot to take pictures. I just took in the scenery and enjoyed the feel of the road.


I hooked on to the gorgeously underused Highway 21 over Baimao Shan to Guoxing. This is such a secluded road that seems to see most of its weekend traffic in the form of cycling clubs and large motorcycles. As I started my climb I could hear the buzz saw rumble of the big bikes in the background and I could see a pack of hard climbing cyclists were making good time just down the hill.

I put a little oomph into it to make some distance between myself and the trouble brewing below. I hoped to enjoy a little more solitude before vaulting over the peak for the swooping plunge into Guoxing.



From the guardrail at the top of Baimao Shan, the Central Mountain Range ripples like waves out in an ocean of morning fog. The treat is yours if you can get up there before 10:00am.


The big bikes had caught up to barnstorm past me as I stood by the roadside. One after the other flew by like a train of Tomahawk missiles. I really hate those guys. It is best to just pull over and let them pass.


I started to see a few riders making the ascent up the other side of the mountain. First a trickle of riders followed by larger groups. The Highway 21 is perfect for hill training or a slow weekend outing.

The Highway 21 makes an abrupt left at Guoxing and empties out into a tight river valley. Stunning!


Unfortunately, the only way out is to claw up to a high plateau over Puli. It seems as if they are always growing something new whenever I pass. On this day it was passion fruit. They had bags of passion fruit lining the roadway. I could see the high mountains rising above the red clay fields on the horizon.


It was just enough of a respite to let the legs recover for the second act of the ride.


I broke (70kph) 43mph on the ride into the Puli basin. The sugarcane and onion fields were in full glory, but the sun beat down hard.


I really don't remember much of Puli. I was in and out of the area so quickly, it seemed I was almost immediately climbing to Sun Moon Lake.


For riders contemplating a ride to Sun Moon Lake, I would recommend entering on the 131 out of Shuili and exiting on the Nantou Route 63 to the Highway 16. The Highway 21 is a hot, nasty, filthy plank of traffic and road hazards. There is no real shoulder and no place to go as cards race F-1 style to be the first to get caught in line behind a traffic jam of tour busses and gawking tourists.

Cars will seriously jockey for pole position to be first to get stuck in an lakeside tourist merry-go-round. They will skim their mirrors just past your knuckles as you play tightrope-walker on the fog line. Insane!


The pale blue water is attractive and refreshingly cool. It seems to get more attractive the further you get from it.


But first you must navigate the crap stalls and roast wieners to find some solitude.

The Nantou Route 63 is really the nicest way for a cyclist to exit Sun Moon Lake. It is hidden in a corner behind the Ita Thao village; a tourist village lorded over by a couple well connected families from one of the indigenous villages.


If the Sun Moon Lake circus is the ill... the Route 63 is the cure.

I steadily climbed beneath the shady boughs of the tall trees amid the humming white noise of insects and wind through the leaves. As far as hill climbs go, this is one of the least difficult for the maximum payoff.


No sooner than you bank through the shadowy corners do yo find you are facing a drop to the feet of some seriously high mountains. I didn't even begin to take pictures until halfway down as I enjoyed the inertia filled baking and yawing through betel forests and villages.

The descent can be pretty technical, but just as the road appears to smash headlong into one megalith looming above the grey river, it makes an abrupt right turn up onto the Highway 16, which remains flat until a rolling climb and drop to Shuili.



No sooner had I landed in Xinyi Township, that the weather took an abrupt change. Boom, the sunny skies were clouded over. Boom, the wind started slugging me in the face. I could feel grains of dust cut past my cheeks. Bad news for being so deep into a long ride with so much distance left to go. My only consolation was the gradual false flat out of the mountains.

I got into a tuck and went for broke. I was spinning at 37kph (23mph) into a frontal crosswind that wouldn't let up. I still had some energy in reserve and I had managed to hit every green traffic light between Shuili and Mingjian. Then a pilgrimage complete with bloodied dang-gi or spirit mediums brought all traffic to a halt. This was the end of my amazing end run as I entered the world of traffic lights, fits and stops.

I finally dragged myself home in seven and a half hours, but I was feeling each kilometer. My legs felt fresh, but I had burned my remaining energy and swallowed enough dust for a sandcastle.

This is one of those rides that brought a smile to my face around every corner... between each grimace of pain.

If you ever have the chance to bike central Taiwan... be sure you bike these roads. This is what makes Taiwan a cycling paradise. These are some of the special roads that leave you inspired to do it again and see more.


Score:

Distance: 200km
Climbing: 7402ft
Calories Burned: 6292cal
Time: 7:33:03