Back Roads: Hualong Lane

Of all the small roads in central Taiwan, the Hualong Lane (華龍巷) in Nantou is one of the strangest strips of road I may never ride again.



The ride starts off well enough on a forested climb off the Nantou Route 131 from Shuili. The Route 64 is a super little route to traverse the hills near Sun Moon Lake to Shuili. Just near the peak of the climb is a small lane that disappears into the wilds, but shows a connection to the marvelous alternate to the Highway 14 in the Nantou Route 68.



Some workmen we met at the base of the first descent gave us some advice to take the high road on the left rather than the obvious choice on the right. We decided to heed local knowledge and make the climb.



It turned into some serious ramps in the open sunshine  past tree farms of dubious distinction. Things seemed okay, but then the views started.



The top revealed a dirty section of road, but a full 360 degree vantage point to appreciate the entire Puli basin and its surrounding peaks. We found we were on the ridge that runs parallel high above the Nan tou Route 147. Everything was in sight. It was such a rare vantage point that we stayed to soak it in.



We briefly interrupted the singing of a group of Atayal ginger pickers who seemed delighted to break up the morning by exchanging jokes with us.



The fun ended at a dusty descent that led us speeding off the mountain and into the high-walled courtyard of a farming compound...with its high gate sealed shut and full of barking dogs.

I really didn't want to hike back up that hill, so I bothered the owner to open the gate and let us out. I still have no idea if there could have been an alternate route outside of private property.
The road emptied us out along the Route 68 near the old tree (You'll know it when you see it) and we decided to call it a day for our little adventure.

Cycle Route 4173784 - via Bikemap.net

Cycling Seniors Setting Off For Sun Moon Lake: A Warm Formosan Welcome for Andrew and Alison

About four years ago I was contacted through this blog regarding a proposed bike trip around Taiwan. This is not too unusual. I often field questions and provide advice to would-be travellers to help them better plan a trip around Taiwan. Personally, I enjoy the process of collaboration and, as a long time resident, I also share a sense of deep pride in my home and its potential for cycling. I would hate for someone to leave Taiwan feeling disappointed or underwhelmed. I know how much I enjoy cycling Taiwan and I want visitors to feel the same sense of excitement. I think of it, in some measure, as soft diplomacy. Moreover, I really enjoy meeting great new people.

More times than I can count, I have spent hours in correspondence and plotting routes for strangers to make their cycling trip a bit more than simply following the largest and ugliest highways around Taiwan. And more times than I can count, I never hear any more from the people again.

It is in this light that I was pleased to see a message in my Inbox from Andrew Jacob of Toronto as he was ready to resume his plan to cycle Taiwan with his lovely lady, Ms. Alison Cohen. They also hoped to meet me on their way through Taichung.

We decided to make a day of it, so I was joined by Michael Turton from The View From Taiwan in guiding these two wonderful people to Sun Moon Lake.

While looks may be deceiving, Andrew is over seventy and Alison must be about thirty-five... *wink
They were hauling between 15-17kg a piece and were ready to plod their way through the foothills of central Taiwan.




We hit the Highway 3, which wasn't my first choice, but the easiest choice for tolling up to the lake. On our way we ran into a couple industry guys fleeing from Taipei Cycle to circle Taiwan in just a few days.



After enduring the buzzsaw of scooter racing on the Highway 14, we eased off onto the Nantou Route 6 in a pleasant respite from a major arterial.



The Nantou Route 6 is relatively smooth with a couple of old tunnels that once served regular traffic into the Puli Basin.



Strawberries are still in season, so we stopped for a sample at a roadside stall.



The plan was to take the Route 147 to the Route 131 and then up toward the lake. After a pitstop for lunch, we were on our way.



Andrew and Alison rolled steadily along and we pretended not to see the occasional *non-hill.



The Route 147 is a quiet, shady lane that cuts behind Jiufen Er Shan and really only has one significant climb.



We eventually hit the final ramp and pushed our way to the top.



After blasting downward through hillside farms beneath tall trees and betel palms, we had landed on the 131.



An enjoyable day of cycling doesn't have to have the highest climbs, longest distances, quad-busting speeds, or pad your Strava numbers.

A great day of cycling is often one that is punctuated with chatter, stories, thoughts and laughter. This was one of those spectacular rides on a roads that linked between people as well as places on the map.

In a little postscript to our ride. Andrew wrote to tell me of their experiences with Taiwanese hospitality and having complete strangers come out of the blue to offer them fresh fruit and lodging.

So if you happen to see Andrew and Alison out on the road, be sure to wave and even see if you can join them for a few kilometers. You won't regret it.



Andrew's Adventure Blog: http://rollingbicycletours.blogspot.tw

Michael's Post on our day: Here

Taichung Cyclists Double Down on Double Ten

 
Wednesday was the mid-week Double Ten holiday, and nothing makes for a better excuse for a fantastic ride than a day you don't have to be at work. 

Last week, Dom, my friend and riding buddy, announced on FB Taichung Cycle Page, that he'd like to put an all inclusive ride together for the holiday. It was a general cattle call to all local riders to see if he'd get any takers. 

The results were phenomenal. Not only did he get over a dozen local riders to participate, but his ride also brought together several different strands of the Taichung cycling community. The group consisted of hardcore triathletes, industry insiders, weekend warriors, randonneurs, enthusiasts and even a novice. The sight was quite a spectacle. 




It was by far the largest group of foreign riders I have ever seen assembled in Taichung. 



The group was not only for expats, but there was also local Taiwanese representation in the group as well. 

Moreover, it was a circus of personalities, many keen to crack wise. 




Once everyone who had expressed interest had converged on the prearranged 7-11 in Wufeng, the mix of lycra and logos rumbled down the Highway 3. The most notable absence from the group was Michael Turton, a local cycling legend several riders had been keen to meet.  


Our rolling swarm took a prudent speed along the backroads that lead to the Highway 14. There was lots of catching up and horsing around. It was a nice rolling conversation. 



We made our turn at the bridge between Caotun and Wufeng to a noodle of a back road that served up an impressive view of rice fields and the famed Ninety-nine Peaks looming in the background.  






The weather was sunny, with a light breeze to keep things cool; the perfect riding weather. 

We all finally emptied out onto the Highway 14 and the pace quickened with the higher speed of traffic in general. The group broke up into different conversation and purposes. Some riders shot ahead to hammer the rolling hills, others held pack to simply BS with each other. 

We briefly regrouped at a convenience store along the route to wait for stragglers and for Josh Colp from Culprit Bicycles. 



Soon we were back on the road in cruise control.



At the junction between the Nantou Route 147 and the Highway 14, the group split into two groups. The group made up of triathletes took the shallow hills of the major highways to Sun Moon Lake, while my group ventured out into the foothills for a more difficult scramble to the lake. 



And then there were seven. 

My group consisted of seven riders: Dom, an excellent (and well conditioned) rider, James from Lapierre (also an excellent rider), David from BH bikes, Xiao Ding, Mike (a relative novice) and the great distance chewer.... Mr. Peter Hagen Stewart. Peter biked up from Tainan to join us for our century ride and then bike home. 

It was an interesting group with lots of great chatter along the way. 



We ambled up hills and along streams. There was hardly any traffic to speak of. It was really quite relaxing. 



We were also treated to some fantastic descents that simple bring an automatic smile to the face. 



As we met the Route 131, we waited for our group to reconstitute before heaving again into some more rolling terrain. 

Before too long the Route 131 spit us out onto the busy Highway 21 and we were again scrapping for space amid tour busses and sight seers. 



As we waited at the shore of Sun Moon Lake for everyone to make the final grind up the hill, we realized Xiao Ding was missing. We saw him spinning furiously for the lake, but nobody remembers seeing where he went. 

After waiting an adequate period of time we just had to keep rolling. It was as if he had been swallowed up by the turquoise waters and simply vanished without a trace. 



And then there were six.

We managed to successfully negotiate the amazingly bike friendly environs of Sun Moon lake. I was only boxed in by a CRV and pushed into a parking space by a Nissan. 



At Ita Thao Village we took in calories. I am not sure if we were eating food, but we knew there were some calories in there somewhere. 

Ita Thao Village is the site of our final climb for the day. It is a relatively quick ascent along a single lane road that looks like nothing but a long driveway. 

This little road provides an incredible payoff. It simply dumps you at the foot of the Central Mountain Range. 



The strip of tarmac plunges down the side of the mountain, along hairpin turns and through small indigenous villages. 

All the while you are completely aware of the massive shadow of the mountain walls looming overhead. It is well worth the price of admission. 

As each rider emerged onto the Highway 16, a smile was visibly stamped across his face... all except for Peter who had been too busy concentrating to work up a smile. 





We were eventually spit out of the river valley in Shuili, where we soon discovered that the welcoming party had sent a nasty headwind to fight all the way back to Taichung. 

We made our pace lines and went for broke. Dom took some amazing pulls at the front to his credit. 

Peter turned toward Tainan at Mingjian, we left Mike at a 7-11 in Nantou, James and David peeled off to the other side of the river in Caotun... and then it was just Dom and I.

At about Changhua I was pretty well done. I limped on back to Wuer. Thoughts of food filled my mind. It was too much. I let Dom go on ahead and stopped for one last sugar high to carry me home. it worked. I was a new man all the way home. 



This is the longest and most interesting ride I have done in a long time. It was great to be out riding with so many awesome people on a fine day off from work. 

A special hats off to Mike for completing his first century ride.