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Monday, March 5, 2012

Does Cycling Leisure Suit Taiwan's Urban Centers?


The China Post has a couple of timely articles in regard to cycling and Taiwan's bicycle culture.

The first is an editorial, I presume, timed to coincide with this weekend's Taipei Cycle expo. With the paper's pro-KMT leanings, I would also presume the paper seeks to help validate government transportation and recreation policies involving the bicycle.

Weaving through traffic with cycling tights on and headphones blaring, the newest generation of bicycle riders is a unique breed of athletes who are starting to be taken seriously by the government.

After renovating old train tracks and abandoned roads into bike routes, local authorities have been doing everything they can to accommodate the adventure-seeking residents, as is the case with Taipei, which now operates “supply stations” in the city's riverside parks.

The Taipei City Government also announced last year the expansion of its public commuter bicycle rental system, YouBike (微笑單車), to infrequent riders who want to wander into the busy Xinyi District.

The growing interest for the Tour de Taiwan (國際自由車環台公路大賽), which will span from March 10 to 16 from Taipei to Kaohsiung, further illustrates how government authorities have been successfully promoting Taiwan as a “kingdom of bicycles.

In many ways, the attention Taiwan has given to bicycle infrastructure is laudable in light of other, industrialized nations which will remain anonymous, that continue to fund an automotive lifestyle.

There are a few things I would like to take issue with. I hope my highlights above may be of some assistance.

The bulk of this article deals with the great investment Taiwan's central and local governments have made in recreational cycling. As a recreational cyclist I benefit from some of these investments. I will admit that.

But that opening sentence really strikes a nerve. "Weaving through traffic...". This is where Taiwan's investment has been a bust.

With so much invested in recreational cycling, there is precious little remaining for cycling as utility and urban transportation. The current state of affairs has commuters locked in a daily battle against Taiwan's notoriously chaotic traffic. There is little space being made to incorporate bicycles into the city. I shout this again and again.

The bicycle is a revolutionary machine (pardon the pun). It is a symbol of proletarian mobility all around the world. The bicycle has given people a means to leave the farms, villages and countrysides to find work further afield. Moreover, the bicycle has been a tool for women's liberation all over the world.

The idea of the bike is a very proletarian concept--self propelled transport with minimal investment.

Taiwan's emphasis on the bike for recreation and leisure with far flung bike ways, which are often removed from the urban centers where people live and work, seems to subvert this idea into reserving the bicycle for use as an elitist toy. Without creating space in the cities for bikes as traffic, Taiwan's government limits its use as a tool of mobility for everyone.

Of all the bike accidents I have seen in Taiwan, I would estimate that 90% have been old women on steel bikes making a grocery run.

It might be time to rein in the development of the leisurely rural trails until the urban centers can start to catch up.

Though, as Taiwan markets itself as a virtual "kingdom" of bicycles, I don't imagine that power structure is really interested in the proletarian possibilities the bicycle can offer.
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The second article deals with a Sun Moon Lake biking event scheduled for April 29.

Registration is now open for the 2012 Merida Sun Moon Lake Biking event on the Merida website (http://www.merida.com.tw). Three routes are open to a total of 4,000 participants — the family leisure course, the around-the-lake course, and the self-challenge course. In addition to receiving unique souvenirs from the Merida, participants will be granted various accommodation and dining discounts in the Sun Moon Lake area.

The self-challenge course, which measures to a total of 60 kilometers, is organized along the most picturesque Sun Moon Lake sites, where bikers can enjoy the quietness of rural sceneries while pushing for one's limits.

This is a very good look at how the bicycle industry is working with the tourism industry to drive sales. This is who really stands to benefit from the government's push for leisure cycling infrastructure projects.

With 4000 participants converged on Sun Moon Lake, combined with the weekend supply of busses hauling Chinese tourists around the perimeter, I can truly imagine enjoying the "quietness of rural sceneries" while pushing my limits. Pass.

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Backwards Day: Sanyi Saddle Sore


On Saturday I took some time to share some cycling moments with my buddy Chris, and in doing so, I was inspired to go out Sunday morning with the odd notion that I would go out and inflict a heavy amount of pain upon myself, then return home all the better for it. That was the plan.


I took off with a rough idea of what I wanted to do. It involved mixing a couple previous routes through southern Miaoli County into one route for climbing and distance.

I was deep in the drops before ever leaving the front door. Everything felt great. I was humming along feeling great. My speed was encouraging and at times I felt motorized.

The question I had in the back of my mind, was how long I could sustain this pace.

I left the door prepared for an entirely different ride.

I left prepared for a winter ride with breakfast, a few stops and a tailwind on the return trip.


Route 49

As I cut through Fengyuan, I noticed they had changed my regular viaduct to the Highway 3 and had neglected to post any signage at the location.

I thought I'd have a go of it, and chose the middle lane for scooters.

The next thing I knew, I was on the Highway 13 in Houli.

Today was to be Backwards Day.

As the visionary landscape artist, Bob Ross, used to always say, "There are no mistakes... only happy little accidents."

I decided to work this error into my plan for the day and approach the route backwards. This meant hammering up to Sanyi on the Highway 13 and then traversing over to the Miaoli Route 130 via the Route 49.



This is a beautifully forested route, which pitches and dives through the foothills of Miaoli.


I incidentally cut through the Sheng Shing Tourist Station and dodged the meandering tourists as I tried to escape as quickly as possible.

Sheng Shing Station



There were several recreational cycling clubs out enjoying the weather.


I was also pleased to see the Route 130 included as an official part of the Miaoli Bikeway.


The morning haze had burned off by mod-morning. All of a sudden it dawned on me that I hadn't brought my sunscreen.

In Taiwan, it seems we have the first "hot ride" of the year at about this point. This is when the weather transitions from winter chills to blazing heat.

The transition is hard on the body.

After a good ride is oppressive heat, the summer riding becomes much easier... but oh the getting used to it....


Here I was, stuck at the bottom of a stiff climb, the sun beating down... wearing a jacket. I hadn't eaten enough and I wasn't carrying as much water, having gotten used to sipping my supplies in the cooler weather I was expecting.


I mounted my attack on the back of the Route 130 up Guan-dao Shan. It was nice to take my time to enjoy the views going up. I usually reserve this stretch of pavement for the screaming descent it offers, but this time I was learning all about what this mountain is made of.

While the front side of Guan-dao Shan is a hot, quick spin to the top, the back side is a slow burning grind. It is much less fun than the opposite way.

I was passed by numerous riders who already knew what I was thinking and took the descent from the front rather than heaving up the side I was on.

The Climb

There were a couple riders joining me from the Sanyi side.


I came upon one old guy in coaching pants, who had managed to eat the whole climb out of the saddle on his mountain bike.

He wasn't carrying any water, but instead he had a soaked rag stuffed into a jury rigged container made from a plastic bottle.


I was soon slicing down the opposite side of the hill, pivoting on axis as the inertia made steering as easy as a little shift in weight.


By the time I got to the Highway 3, I knew I was pretty tired. So, I turned left onto the Highway 3 and went out to Dahu to continue my ride up the Route 55 on Pinglin Road.


Pinglin Rd. is another of those roads I have only ridden from Jhuolan and it seems far more forgiving coming from the southern end.


By this time my jacket was caked with the chalky white dust from the salt that had been distilled from my body, baked out by the unrelenting sun.


The part of Pinglin Rd. near Dahu has three or for good climbs that were just killing me.
I felt a cramp in my quad and eased off the bike for a stretch.

Just at that moment a yokel in a blue truck comes by and shouts out the window that I should be riding up the hill and not resting.

It was like the guy wanted to be punched in the face.

First of all, this is the first real climbing I have done since November.

Second: I had just hauled my ass up several nasty little climbs and one major hill.

Third: After losing so much to overuse injuries, the last thing I want to do is to mess my leg up again, and therefore, I take every sensation in my leg seriously.

And therein lies the big question.... How does one come back from an injury of this nature without re-injuring oneself while increasing stress on the muscles? You only know when too much is too much after the fact.


I suffered through the remaining hills with the assurance that with a steady wind from the north, it would be gravy all the way to Jhuolan. I imagined sliding out of the hills and into downtown Jhuolan with a steady wind at my back to mask my lack of conditioning.


I was sorely mistaken.

From other corroborating reports I have heard, Taiwan experienced the most inexplicable steady wind from the south... just for a couple hours yesterday about mid-day.

It made the whole route a pugilistic fight for ground and headway. What a pisser!

Pinglin Rd.

I arrived for a rest stop in Jhuolan and then headed toward Taichung. Before long, a breeze was pushing me from behind. I was charging forward in a deep tuck at 45kph toward home.

I am sure I am a better person for all of this... but it was admittedly a pretty hard day in the saddle.


Bike route 1440174 - powered by Bikemap

Friday, March 2, 2012

Wuling: A Cycling Icon Hiding In Plain Sight


Lee Rodgers, the Taiwan based British cyclist who writes for Velonews, has another report from the Tour of Langkawi in which he looks for another excuse to mention Taiwan's famed Wuling ride.

Iʼve mentioned this hill-climb before, but permit me to drone on. Itʼs a 90km beast of an event that lives in central Taiwan, and goes from a sleepy town that goes by the name of Hualien, meanders through the rather magnificent Taroko Gorge amidst and sometimes through enormous slabs of ancient rock so delightful that entices riders even mid-race to utter ʻooh wow!ʼ and up and up and up to a small makeshift stage where a septuagenarian Robert Plant look-a-like is doing an acappella version of Stairway To Heaven in a string vest, leather speedos and Uggs — and then up a little more, all the way up to 3,275 meters.

I mentioned this climb (named Wuling) to one of my Peloton Buddies the day before the stage up to Genting and he actually said that he found my tale hard to believe — as if Iʼd make it up! Ok, there is no septuagenarian Robert Plant look-a-like is doing an acapella version of Stairway To Heaven in a string vest, leather speedos and Uggs. Heʼs actually 64, but the rest is true.

I raced up it late last year alongside Euro-peloton veteran Michael Carter, and he, of the Grand Tours of Spain, Italy and France, said he had never seen anything like it.

So Gending, Stage 6. I suffered, yes, and my time wasnʼt knockout, but it wasnʼt really that bad. I have, as maybe you can understand if youʼve tried even jogging for a few hundred meters at close to 3,275 meters, had worse days. Yet it wasnʼt easy by any means. Itʼs very beautiful up there in the Highlands and the mountain deserves respect, with the bottom 8km close to 16% average and the same for the top 4km or so.


I think I understand what Lee is really trying to say. When you have such a badass climb in your backyard that you know would gain the respect of the sport's most talented climbers, you take a little local pride in it and then wish you could bring Marco Pantani back from the dead, just to hear him whimper about the final grade to the top.

I get the sense that Rodgers, much like myself, wishes the sport's elite riders might one day discover the climb to Wuling and validate it as exactly what it could represent to cycling--an iconic climb.

Today, the climb to Wuling gets little respect or recognition beyond our fair island. Sometimes it doesn't even get respect from local organizers.

The climb that stands to cement Taiwan's international reputation in competitive cycling as a place where legends are born, is again left out of the Tour of Taiwan (Maybe the Tour of Tai-Yawn might be a more fitting moniker).

So, in reverence of Wuling and in gratitude to Lee Rodgers for his continued salesmanship of my adopted home and its magnificence, here is a pictorial look at the 90km of climbing that makes Hualien to Wuling a must for any cyclist looking to test their mettle.






















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Also:

If you are interested in racing to Wuling from Puli, the Nantou Cycling Association will be holding the Wuling Cup 6/17/2012.

The event will divide the field into a race group and a recreational group. If you can finish the climb in 5hrs 30min. you can qualify for the race group.

This might be a better alternative to the Neverstop Wuling Challenge, which saw 7000 riders converge on the mountain at the same time creating conflict with motorists and potentially dangerous conditions.

Saturday Commute


This morning I hopped on the Lincoln Continental and made the most of my Saturday morning commute.



I swapped out the stem for a shorter one to help with the fit after Li Chi, the disinterested Taiwanese distributor for Salsa, insisted on replacing my cracked frame with a wonderful Salsa La Cruz... that is just on the too big side of comfortable. It seems to be working out a little bit better.

The True Temper steel frame is buttery smooth with stable geometry. Pure plushness.
Switching between bikes always brings out the contrasts between the rides. There is always something to appreciate.

Ok, back to work!