Tackling Tranquil and Terrible Tainan: The View from Taiwan's Southern Expedition

Michael Turton of The View from Taiwan has posted a magnificent spread detailing his tour of the foothills of Tainan. The full article can be found HERE.

Here is an excerpt:

The 179 turned out to be absolutely brutal, 16 kms or so of up and down hills, none big, but almost all 10-12% grades, a couple every kilometer. Because the area around the reservoir is a conservation district, there was no development -- no houses, no water, no people, nothing. The road surface was broken up with great gashes that ran parallel to the direction of travel, dangerous invitations for your wheels to slide into. And of course, no views, the whole thing was vegetated over. It was basically 16 kms of brutal ascent and descent, with nothing flat.

Biking Taiwan's East Coast: The Glory of Green

Michael Turton over at The View From Taiwan has a wonderful write-up and pictorial spread on his adventures riding Taiwan's East Coast and Green island. It is obvious why the area is ranked the number 2 area in the world for cycle tourism.

Here is one little excerpt on the routes they took and especially on some of the trouble that occurs where the bike meets train. In Taiwan the left and right hands of the civil service are merely the anonymous sperm donors to the same policy.

The next morning, the dawn of a cool, overcast day, we cruised the 193 back to Hualien city, and picked up the 1:02 express back to Fengyuan. It turns out that 193 is much easier and faster done from the south -- I had underestimated the extent to which it is one long uphill slog from Hualien. It's a lovely road, one of the best on the island, never trafficked, and the views over the rift valley are incredible. Highly recommended.

The train proved to be another encounter with the TRA's bike train crapshoot. We bought the tix for the 1:00 pm express in Taitung the day before. There we were informed there were no bike places for our bikes and we would have to bag them --- even though it was a designated bike train with the special car for bike storage without needing to disassemble them and on which bikes could travel for free with a ticket for car 12. The spaces for the bikes were all taken, we were told.

The reality was that, as usual, the TRA staffer was wrong about the policy. In fact, we were able to pay the baggage fee and bring the bikes on the same train as luggage in the same compartment as the free bikes with the bike tickets. In fact, there were no such bikes, for the entire trip ours were the only bikes on the train -- meaning we could have had one of the four free bike spaces. The computer system associates the bikes with a seat in car 12, the car with the luggage facility, meaning that if the seats in car 12 are sold out, then there are no free bike spaces (that's right, bikes do not have priority in that arrangement -- it is impossible to get a free bike shipment if you have to sit in another car, as we did). Someone needs to give the brains of TRA planners are thorough scrubbing. There was absolutely no reason we couldn't have been treated as a free bike shipment and no reason not to reserve seats for cyclists in car 12, since it is a designated bike train. Argh!

Some really lovely photos in this set: HERE

*photos courtesy of Michael Turton

Bike Train

• Tern, the new folding bike company that emerged from the odd family feud from the founders of Dahon, will be advertising heavily in Taipei this week. I would love to know where to actually buy a Tern.

• Taipei Cycle opens today. See what is shaking at the Nangang Exhibition Center.

• The Velocity wins the International Bike Design Competition.

• Formerly on Formosa, David Reid showcases his new bike. This would be ideal for a lot of Taiwan-based riders.

Also:

People laughed at me 4 years ago when I was zipping along roadways with a disc equipped drop bar bicycle. Now, Colnago releases a C-59 Disc roadbike. Vindication is mine!

Perspectives From Around Taichung: Circling The City

Posing Above Airbase

After slightly over doing it last weekend, I really needed to take it easy. I needed to ride. I mean, I REALLY needed to ride! Still, I did not want to get myself into any situation that would destroy my knee again if I started feeling pain 50km from home. I also really needed to ride with my good friend Michael Turton from The View From Taiwan. We hadn't ridden together in weeks and sometimes nothing is better than just shooting the shit on two wheels.

I invited Michael to join me on an easy ride around Taichung City. The idea was to take a slow roll around the edges of the city with maybe time for a long coffee at a pace easy enough to talk Taiwanese politics, culture and biking.

Patriotic Taiwanese

On my way out to meet Michael, I was happy to meet two cyclists who called themselves the "Bicycle Brothers" or 鐵馬兄弟. These two young men were on the final day of their round-island trip, which started in Taoyuan. Each man had a placard attached to the back of their bicycle expressing his love for Taiwan. For many Taiwanese, a round-island trip not only signifies a physical or personal challenge, but it also reflects a desire to view Taiwan as a center and the intent to experience the country from all sides. The round-island trip has become a strong expression of a Taiwan-centered identity (a symbol that has often been subverted by Taiwan's political actors, especially if their loyalty to Taiwan is suspect).

I love Taiwan

Mountains And Road

As I made my way out toward the edge of the city near Dakeng, the mountains were clearly visible in the distance. With moist air blowing off the ocean, it is too easy to forget Taichung is surrounded by foothills and mountains that mostly reside behind a veil of dust and haze.

Michael The Pathfinder

I followed Michael on some winding paths between the graves near the notorious Ivy boarding school, and we worked our way into Shen Gang.

Twisting Roads of Tanzi

The Family Car?

Man Exposes His Bird

Before long we were on the Highway 10, which runs from Daya to Feng-yuan. I love this area as I always see the damnedest things out there.

Eventually we met up with Zhong Ching Rd. and took that to the base of Dadu Shan. As we were riding we briefly joined a group of very friendly cyclists on mountain bikes who were determined to get to Ching Shui. My favorite exchange came from this bunch:

Guy: Giant makes good bikes. Maybe you should buy a Giant.

Me: I have heard that Seven isn't so bad either.

It wasn't long before Michael had heard enough of the Giant worship, and after coming off a Giant himself, put the rubber down and had put the group a kilometer behind.

The Red Clay of Dadu Shan

We reached the climb up to Dadu Shan and although I can still climb, my endurance is really hurting. I can't wait to start the interval training to get my skills back.

The view from Dadu Shan was beautiful. It is easy to get stuck in the city hating on the traffic and exhaust. Luckily we have Dadu Shan sitting just above the city where a rider can get away and put the whole mess into perspective.

Foothills

From my earliest days in Taichung I have always been impressed with the fields of bright orange clay that over over the city skyline.

Our Fair City

The clouds and sprinkles of rain added a little drama to the descent off the hill as we barreled into Taichung city along Xi-tun Rd. and eventually a relaxed lunch before calling it a day.

The leg was getting a bit sore, but it was mainly along the IT band near the hip, so a little stretching took care of it and it was like hitting the reset button. A little knee soreness that also quickly abated, so a few more building rides before I try another long adventure or serious climbing.

Although it was short, slow and local, it was another wonderful ride.

The Great Xitun Intersection

The View From Kenting: Michael Concludes His Romp Through Southern Formosa

Michael concludes his Tour of Pingtung with some routes in and around Kenting. Although Kenting is known as the Palm Beach or Brighton of Taiwan, there are some really wonderful roads that wind around the peninsula. There are plenty of off-the-beaten-track adventures still to be had. Check out the full report and marvelous pictures HERE.

Biking Michael In Pingtung Part III: Kenting

Be sure to visit The View From Taiwan for the third installment of Michael Turton's Kenting leg of his Tour of Pingtung. He has some really excellent pictures and commentary.

Also:

• Cycling Satin Cesena offers a great meditation on bicycle design.

and

• Bicycle Sidewalk shows off his awesome legs in an impressive report on his Hualien riding and Miaoli Triathlon results.

• The Daily Bubble Tea explores the foothills and mountains leading up to the base of Alishan along the magnificent 149甲.

The View From Pingtung: Michael Goes South

Be sure you check out Michael Turton's excellent ride report on his trip through Pingtung at The View From Taiwan.

It looks awesome and I have to say, Michael is looking pretty good too.