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Monday, November 22, 2010

Clatterbridge Cancer Fighters Arrive

The folks from the Clatterbridge Society for Cancer Research will embark on their expedition across Taiwan beginning tomorrow. If any readers are in the area I hope you will make it out to cheer them on.

I was informed by the organizers that they chose to ride Taiwan because they felt it was, "unique, beautiful and not too easy." They also noted that Taiwan is being hailed as "the new cyclists haven" and so it was the top of the list. They will not be disappointed. The ride can be followed on their blog here.

The Itinerary will be as follows:


Day 1 : Saturday 20 November

London – Kaohsiung

Overnight flight from London to Kaohsiung via Hong Kong.



Day 2

Kaohsiung – Kenting National Park

Arrive at Kaohsiung. On arrival we transfer to a hotel in the Kenting National Park in the tropical peninsula. We have dinner together, bike fitting and hear more about the challenge ahead. The park is the oldest and southernmost park in Taiwan established in 1984. It is famous for its coral reef cliffs, and for housing the historical lighthouse of Eluanbi.



Day 3

Eluanbi – Sichongxi 65km approx

We start the challenge with a warm up cycle from Eluanbi, the southern most tip of the peninsula. The tropical area of Taiwan is beautiful, a great start to the challenge. We’ll be cycling along the coast on some main roads with little traffic, the morning will be tougher as there are a few steep uphills and a steep downhill. The landscape to begin with is coast on one side and a tropical forest on the other. The first steep uphill passes through villages including Longpin, at the top we will be rewarded with views across the sea. After 3-4km the road heads down a steep section which levels out again along the shoreline. Next we head inland, and the landscape gives us a different view of what Taiwan has to offer with its lush tea plantations carpeting the valley. After another steep uphill and a few undulations we stop for lunch. The afternoon is less hilly, as we cycle on gentle undulations for most of the way cutting across farmland. We pass the impressive Checheng Temple then it’s the last 11km of the day to Sihchongxi. A short cycle uphill takes us to the overnight hotel located in the village, near the hot springs.



Day 4

Sichongxi – Zhiben 102km approx

Today we cycle from the west coast to the east of this paradise island and it’s another hilly day. We follow the sunshine coast line of the Pacific Ocean through local towns and small villages. The coastal road is popular with the locals and roads will range from tarmac roads, highways, to some which are less well-maintained with some pot-holes. There will be more traffic than yesterday so it’s likely there will be sections where we will cycle in single file. To start with we cycle along a road in a narrow valley between high cliffs, then farmland. The road climbs and drops and just before lunch we cycle downhill to sea level. We will be able to enjoy the tropical views and interaction with very hospitable Taiwanese people en route. For most of the afternoon we continue on hilly terrain passing through the local villages of Daren, Dawu and Jinluen to name but a few. The day ends with a short, sharp 1km hill up through the village of Zhiben. We stay overnight at a hotel in Zhiben, the famous town of the hot springs.







Day 5

Zhiben – Changgung 83km approx

It’s an easier day today mainly along the coast as we cycle in this rural part of Taiwan through the gorge. This morning we retrace our route back down to the coast. The first 20km is gently undulating tarmac road of urban cycling. En route today we will be taking a short snack stop at Fugang, a small fishing village, to soak up some of the typical scenes of local life. Late morning we pick up a designated cycle lane on a gently undulating road through Beinan and Fushan. The landscape is beautiful here as the mountain slopes to meet the coastline. After lunch we enjoy the special scenery of the gorge, a wide valley and rice fields until we reach our overnight hotel in the town of Changgung.





Day 6

Changgung – Shoufong 110km approx

Today is our longest cycle day of the challenge, by now we will have built up stamina from the first half of our challenge. It’s a long day in the mountains and valleys. We climb from the coast to the Central Valley; the scenery is stunning. First we follow the usual coastal road, on a cycle lane on the hard shoulder. After 2km we come to the first of 2 tunnels. We continue on through villages and towns of Yiwan, Shihyusan and Ningpu. After a further 18km we come to a very steep uphill, followed by our second tunnel: a 3km-long tunnel on a gentle ascent. Exit the tunnel and enter the village of Fuli, from here it’s a spectacular downhill into the valley with some amazing views. We break for lunch, then it’s back on the bikes for an afternoon of cycling on hilly terrain and strong undulations; we cycle over the River Fuyan and enjoy the stunning scenery and catch glimpses of local village life in this unique country. We overnight at a resort in the Central Valley.





Day 7

Shoufeng – Hualien – Taroko National Park 55km approx

We start the day cycling to Hualien and follow the new designated cycle path along the coast and the city. We then continue to the entrance of the Taroko Gorges where we finish our cycling. After lunch, we visit the wonderland of natural beauty, Taroko Gorge, by coach. Taroko National Park is in the north-eastern part of the island, facing the Pacific Ocean. The park has many high mountains and steep gorges, with many peaks towering above 3,000m in height, and with many natural watersheds. The many waterfalls, diverse forms of plant and animal life, and the indigenous Taroko people, together create the rich texture of this unique natural ecosystem. The tour takes us past deep marble canyons, rushing white water and towering cliffs, one of the world’s most scenic attractions.



Tonight we have a special meal together to celebrate the achievements of the week.



Day 8

Taipei

Morning transfer to Taipei, the capital city of Taiwan to overnight. A few hours to explore before transferring to the airport to catch our evening flight home to London.



Day 9 Sunday 28 November

London

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Caffe Terry


Taiwan's cycling culture is expressed and created in several manifestations. Culture is not about where something comes from. You can argue that all the way back to the australopithecines. The important aspect is what people do with it. This is where the formation of culture happens.

One of these "Locations of Culture", to spin a phrase from Homi Bhabha, can be found at Caffe Terry, in Taichung's Nantun District.


Caffe Terry (caffe in the Italian spelling for coffee) is a fantastic hub for Taichung's cyclists, or for anybody who is simply interested in good beverages and good food.

The cafe is owned and operated by Terry Lin, who is a well-known cyclist in his own right, and the organizer of Team Caffe Tery, one of our local teams. Terry uses his cafe to organize cycling events and to simply foster greater cycling culture. The entire cafe is built around a cycling motif, with tabled made from bike wheels, and various accessories littered throughout the cafe.


One thing Terry offers that is lacking at most of Taiwan's cafes is ample bicycle parking. You can easily ride out for a pre or post ride buzz, leave your bike outside and chill out with the piece of mind that your bike is out of the way and safe.


Terry's corner location makes it a bit like a hide-away, sequestered off from the traffic of nearby Gong-yi Rd. There is plenty of space to relax, both in doors and out and the layout makes sense without crowding too many chairs into too little space.


Terry's also has an ample bar area to simply run in, drop a couple shots of caffeine, chat up Terry about the local conditions, and then hit the road.




One thing I really liked was the abundant use of natural lighting. Nothing makes me feel more annoyed than cafes that use nothing but florescent bulbs.



On this trip I ordered a cappuccino and a smoked chicken sandwich. My wife ordered an Americano and the German sausage.


Terry made a satisfying cappuccino, not too acidic like most places. It really hit the spot.


The smoked chicken sandwich looked pretty basic at first, but after taking a few bikes it was actually a complex taste. I really enjoyed the choice of ingredients... especially the cheese. Mmmm!


My wife was impressed with the quality of the sausage and mustard. She wasn't such a fan of all that dressing and might suggest dressing on the side next time. Excellent dinner rolls!


We stayed for quite a while and browsed the cycling related reading material for some time. I then chatted with Terry for a while about... cycling. I guess his team saw me in Changhua on the side of the road as I nursed the cramps from my legs. How embarrassing.


Terry's makes an excellent location for any area cyclist to organize rides, meet fellow cyclists, rendezvous before or after a ride, integrate into Taichung's cycling culture, or just chill with a book. I hope readers out there will stop by and give it a try. Great Place!

Caffe Terry:
422 Da Ying St.
Nantun Dist.
Taichung City
Phone: 0423207243
Hours: Tues-Sun. 10:00am-12:00am
(Caffe Terry is located on a side street across from the Starbucks and 3C Electronics Store on Gong Yi Rd.)

    週二~週日AM10:00~PM24:00 公休日(星期一) 0423207243 可預約 台中市南屯區大英街422號 自備杯子點飲品可折10元

UPDATE: Let me add some useful information from the comments section below:

Andrew, great post and review of Cafe Terry. Terry is a good friend and I am there often (almost daily). I think people might also find it interesting to know that as a side business, Terry builds/assembles custom bikes, and/or can have frames custom painted. Most the frames/bikes in his shop are his own graphic concepts (not talking frame geometry). Take him parts and ask him to find a frame to fit, or just tell him what you want and your budget and he will find frame and parts and assemble it for you. Also, every so often (once every few months, usually on a Sunday) he hosts a "bike flea market" at his shop, where people can bring the bikes and parts they want to sell (in advance of that day) and coffee and bike lovers can browse and buy; he will handle the selling so, the seller doesn't need to be there at all. Again, thanks for the post. Keep riding!

Climbing Out Of A Rut: Foothills of Central Taiwan From the 88 to the 136

Japanese Colonial Era Kendo Dojo

I think my recent troubles have been well documented and I don't need to rehash the particulars, but what I really needed this weekend was something that could force me to push my body back into shape. Sunday made a great opportunity to abuse my legs.

My Wife's Jr. High Classmate Campaigns

I was originally slated to meet Michael for one of several plans we devised throughout the week. I often find myself devising new schemes for rides yet-to-be. The weekend weather was amazing. It was just too ideal for riding.


Michael Climbs Through Orange Groves

I arrived at Michaels bright and early and we took off onto Fengyuan and up the Taichung Local 88. The 88 is a fantastic little climb that makes for a great entry point onto the Hsin She plateau; a large spread of farms and agriculture just outside of Taichung. The Hsin She plateau is also a 1900ft. climb. Most of the ranges between 6% -10% grades, so it is not impossible. The views are also well worth the effort as they offer a full panorama of the city below. Unfortunately, the haze prevented me from taking any pictures that were worth a damn.

Look Out Below

Michael seemed to be having a particularly rough time with the grade and expressed a few doubts in regard to his performance. I have seen him ride and I cold tell he was not riding like he usually does, and so he turned back. I was really looking forward to riding with him, but he was showing definite signs of over training when the body refuses to exert too much energy in order to concentrate on recovery.

It happens to us all. One of the most important things an athlete can do is to listen to the body. Proper training consists of exercise, diet, and recovery. When we deny ourselves any one of those... we simply can't perform up to our abilities. A smart athlete will see the signs of overtraining and stop. Unfortunately, athletes are also competitive and driven people who are always seeking improvement, so many people overtrain.

Egret Hanging Out

After Michael left I had to mentally shift gears. I had been mentally preparing myself for ony type of ride, and now I would be doing another. It was not easy to make the transition or to know which direction to go.

I finished my climb at a pretty fast pace and looked for some barometer as to where I was mentally and physically to gain some clue as to what I should try. A 15 min. coffee stop at the 7-11 in Hsin She allowed me to sort through the mitigating factors, such as time, ability, goals and estimated return time. I decided to go over the fence. Seeing as I had climbed up the 88 to Hsin She... I thought a day of climbing would do a body good, so I set my sights on the Highway 21 to Guoxing, and I committed myself to returning to Taichung on the famed 136.

Photo-Op By The Cafe At The Top Of The Highway 21

I made really good time up to the base of the Highway 21, but made sure to keep my heart rate down. I kept pushing up the 21 at about 16kph with the thought in the back of my mind that the 136 still lay ahead.

Banana Farms

My descents were not as quick or crisp as I would like. The sight of a van heading up my lane as I rounded a corner just made me gun shy.

99 Peaks From The 136

After a morning of climbing... I thought I should add some more climbing and so I headed up the 136 back to Taichung.

Most of the 136 is really not that bad. It ranges between 6%-10% grades, but there is one section about 3/4 the way up that is just a long stretch of 17% gradient... the kind that saps the legs of energy and dishes out the punishment.

It seems most riders try to get their rides finished in the morning, so I had the road to myself. I think I could just describe the feeling as one of noisy quiet. There's a lot going on besides the sound of my turning crank, but it all fades into the white noise of random thoughts.

View From 136

I used the descent to cool off my legs and recover for my return home. I was surprised to find my legs in good shape and, despite being tires, I managed to roll through Taichung at a good clip.
Kendo Dojo

On the way back I noticed the old Kendo dojo has finally been unveiled. The building is in Taichung City, on Lin Sen Rd. across from the old dormitories by DaTong Elementary School.

Character "Wu" or "Martial"

Many years ago I noticed this building when it was in a serious state of disrepair. I would bring guests by to take a look at a hidden piece of Taiwanese history. I went as far as interviewing some of the locals from the neighborhood who, at the time, were mainly Hakka speaking spouses of old KMT-era government workers.

The building served as a Kendo dojo during much of the Japanese colonial period; mainly for Japanese government employees, but later it served the nearby schools. During the 1930's Japan introduced a policy, which, among other purposes, served to prepare Taiwanese boys for war. Kendo and the martial arts was used to teach young boys the "martial spirit" the Japanese hoped to cultivate in the empire's youth.

This building is an amazing example.


I finally returned home at 2:00pm with 5581ft of climbing in 110km. A much better 110km than my awful race. Redeemed? I don'k know. A good ride... YES!

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Dakeng Scenic Area: Afternoon Riding


Not all of my rides need to be of epic length to be fun and fulfilling. Today I took my wife on a great little training ride that was short, but no less fun. We rode out to the back roads of the Dakeng Scenic Area for a little climbing practice and a little bike time.


From the edge of Taichung city we took Tai Yuan Rd. out toward the mountains. The local elections are a week away and the roads were filled with posters and those slow moving campaign cars that yell at you as you pass and then bombard you with "nostalgic" tunes of yore. Several candidates have been featured astride their bikes pitching green initiatives and bicycle culture.


Although Tai Yuan Rd. is labeled a "bike path", and is a favorite for local cyclists with its wide shoulders and shady trees, the path leaves much to be desired. The bike path actually navigates some very dangerous areas, and at one point suddenly jumps the curb onto the sidewalk. These design problems plague Taiwan's bicycle routes.


As we approached the local golf course, we hung a left to start our ascent into the Dakeng Scenic Area.


The whole area is a labyrinth of narrow farm roads, which are ideal for cycling. We saw dozens of riders out to enjoy the sunshine.


The climb is a moderate grade and we just enjoyed the greater degree of difficulty. Joyce handled it with aplomb. I have never seen her "enjoy" hills. This is where cycling love really takes off... on the hills. You hate them until you love them to the point where you can't live without them.


The whole area is just one quiet corner after another.




We continued toward the Chiang-kai Sheck campground as we neared out 1300ft. ceiling.


The area is especially important to me and evokes a whole range of feelings. When I first arrived in 1998, the Dakeng area was my first major "discovery" as I took my motorcycle out of town to get lost. I was so surprised to find "nature" in a country I had written off as being an industrial wasteland, even before I set foot on Formosa.


Several months later I toured the area in shock as I inspected the damage from the great 921 earthquake. This is where I saw real damage, naked cliffs and my first real human body. It was frightening and has continued to resonate with me. It is always nice to return to see the area recovered and naturally tranquil.


From the top we could look out over the rippled hills in the glowing haze of late afternoon.



The whole area has grown into a haven for cyclists, and thus it is only expected that cycling infrastructure should follow. A rest stop (club house) and adjacent cycling swag stand were located right at the peak to be of service as riders arrived and departed.


As we were about to leave, we were spotted by one of my readers. She is a 58 year-old rider who bought herself a Colnago C-50 for her 50th birthday as a treat and commitment to her health. She is a fantastic climber and adventurous rider. One of my cycling heroes.


I highly recommend this route for beginners or riders who want to get a quick ride in without having to go too far outside the city.

Furthermore, I was very pleased with my wife's progress. You know you're with the right person when, despite being together for many years, they continue to grow, change and surprise you... and all you can do is hope to reciprocate. I am simply thrilled to hear my wife talk about her cycling. It is just one more dimension that adds depth and nuance to this wonderful woman.

What a great afternoon ride!

Also:

Ernesto Colnago, the father of the brand that bears his name, was in Taiwan for two days and paid the folks at T-Mosaic (my LBS) a little visit.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Garmin Edge 500: Stats, Stats, Stats

As a little birthday present my wife bought me the Garmin Edge 500, which has recently been discounted due to the arrival of the new Garmin 800 (which is just too geeky for my needs).

So far I am really loving it. Last night I went out for a short post-sickness ride to get things back in order after a few weeks of inaction and health troubles.

The whole slew of stats are great for tracking fitness, planning routes, focusing on improvement and monitoring effort.

I see I will be having lots of fun with this.

Anti-China Finger Pointing Shifts From Mat To Track

In the wake of the recent "Taekwondo Incident" at the Asian Games in Guangzhou, China, the China Times published this article which continues to target the host nation as the root for Taiwan's failure to bring home medals from the games.

The full article in Chinese can be found HERE.

The English translation below is exclusively provided by Taiwan in Cycles.


An Unfortunate Event At Bike Race: Yi Fang Ru Loses Gold Medal After Losing Consciousness Following Fall

2010-11-17 China Times
Reporting from 中國廣州

“After working so hard for 4 years, the gold metal has just slipped away,” said the female cyclist Yi Fang Ru, who is a member of the Chinese Taipei cycling team attending the Asian Games. She fell from her bike and injured her head in the middle of the track event. Yi was knocked unconscious but still managed to return to her bike and keep riding. She finished in 4th place. When she regained consciousness again and realized that she had lost a chance to win the gold medal, she burst into tears.

Coach Yang witnessed the crash and placed the full blame on the Chinese cyclists. Yang claims they banked and clipped the Japanese cyclists’ handle bars, which caused the two Japanese cyclists to crash. Yi was riding right behind them, and Yi flipped over along with her bike, slamming her head into the ground.

Coach Yang said, “ I hurried to drag her to the side to try to revive her as she was already unconscious. I finally brought her around. If she did not take off again in 5 laps, she would have been disqualified. I encouraged her to keep on riding. When she got on her bike, she was not fully conscious yet and her whole body ached as if she were drunk. It took her over ten laps for her to become fully conscious again.”

Yi rode for another sixty laps and ended up earning 11 points, and therefore did not qualify for any medals. The winner of the gold medal was the Chinese cyclist, Liu Sin, with a score of 34 points. Coach Yang said Yi would have not been passed by other cyclists if she had not fallen off her bike. She could have at least won another 20 points (The cyclist who passes the most behind cyclist in every lap can earn points), which means she could have at least won the silver medal, or even the gold metal.

Coach Yang said, “ After a medical examination, we found that Yi had suffered a light concussion. Her waist is also swollen because of the accident. After receiving medical treatment, she is resting now back at the athlete’s village.” When Yi found out she did not win any medals, she broke into tears. Yi still has a road bike race on the 27th. Coach Yang said the concussion and waist injury are both not serious, but it would be lying if he said the injuries wouldn’t affect her future performance. However, Yi will still do her best because she has been in training for 4 years!

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First: I need to call into question the actions of the coach, in placing a cyclist who has just suffered a head injury and is demonstrating signs of a concussion back on the track where she could become a danger to herself and the other cyclists. That was simply reckless and irresponsible in the pursuit for glory.

Second: The finger pointing in this case is ridiculous. Much of it seems to be editorializing the news on the part of the China Times.

Third: The Taiwanese response to the Taekwondo issue and this issue really exposes an underlying sentiment of resentment and distrust and anxiety shared by the Taiwanese in viewing their relationship with China. It also points to an increasing feeling of disenfranchisement at the hands of China/Chinese and China-centric political actors. These are very real sentiments that transcend party alliances and reflect public opinion. Take heed.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

News From Around The Hub