Epic Fail!: Misadventures On Nantou's Sweet 16

With my birthday on Saturday, I decided to spend the day with my wife. Sunday was to be a selfish day to myself-- a day to rise to a new challenge and explore places I have never been. I really wanted to punish my body for turning another year older. I also needed a little solitary riding to just let the thought flow.

The plan was to do something approximately 160 to 200km... with lots of climbing.

My route of choice was the Highway 16 that starts in Nantou and climbs up to the base of Yushan, the highest mountain in East Asia. From looking at the map it was long enough, high enough, and in the right location.

I figured I could make good time out to Shuili, just at the base of the Highway 16, and then climb until 12:30pm or maybe 1:00pm if I was feeling good. The return would be down hill, thus saving energy, and once I returned to Shuili it would be an easy and familiar shot home along the Highway 3.

That was the plan.

I woke up early, but was pretty tired from some solid rides during the week and the hours of saddle time the day before. On my saturday ride I tried not to exert much energy, but I still wasn't resting.

In preparation for this epic ride I calculated my birthday dinner into the equation and pigged out at Chili's in Tiger City. Lots of good food and a rare dessert to pack in the carbs.

I put myself together and eased out onto the early morning road with a head full of music and some kind of plan for my day.

By the time I rolled into Ming-jian, I could tell my legs were not 100% and worries a little about my day's forecast. I hoped to rally through it and push the sluggishness aside. Part of the plan was to stop in Ming-jian for a coffee and a little more nutrition before entering the mountains. I chose McDonalds for their Sausage McMuffin with Egg meal although I wasn't hungry. After a few bites, I wrapped up half the muffin and stuffed it in my jersey pocket for later.

I hit the road once more to Shuili, where I took in a sport drink, filled up my mounted water bottle, drank enough water out of another bottle to squeeze the air out and flatten it into something pocketable, then I was off into unknown territory.

I highly recommend Shuili for its access to several locations in the foothills and central mountain range. From Shuili you can access Sun Moon Lake, Lugu, Hsitou, Sanlinxi, Alishan, Yushan and several other places.

The road out was surprisingly easy and I spun past a few easy-going cyclists on expensive road bikes. The burst of adrenaline had brought new energy into my legs and I felt unstoppable.

Then, just after the junction with the Highway 21, which goes to Alishan, the Highway 16 shoots up high above the beginnings of the Zhoushui River. The Zhoushui carves an impressive grey rift between the mountains, where the gravel trucks owned by the infamous Yen Ching-biao could be seen working non-stop to dredge out the riverbeds.

The road quickly narrows into a cliff-hugging ribbon of concrete. I expected the climbing to continue ever higher. Surprisingly, it leveled off. There were even a few downhill sections that emptied me out into a fantastic valley of green farms.

The feeling was surreal. I was surrounded on all sides by towering cliffs and dark, shadowy mountains, but I was cruising along flats drenched in sunlight. In the not so distant distance I could make out the silhouette of Yu Shan towering above the other mountains drenched in mist and sunlight. It was such a powerful image... too bad non of my shots could capture it through the light.

The flats suddenly rise up a steep slope to Dili Village, a Bunun town nestled into the side of a mountain. I made a standing assault on the hill until it flattened out into some very charming corners. If not for the debris that littered the road it would have been a cyclists dream.

I finally made it back to where I could get a proper view of the Zhoushui and it was an amazing sight as it eddies and curls in separate tendril-like streams that split and converge.

At one point the road overlooks a tight bend in the river where the vertical cliffs drop straight down into the valley.

After several pictures I continued up the road. It was nearing 11:30 and I still wanted to ride for another hour and a half.

I rounded a bend that revealed a treelined "boulevard" that zig-zaged toward the river. There were a few fern farms in there and more views than I could capture on my camera.

I was jamming down the hill, when I rolled over a gutter grate. The grate was loose and popped up as I passed with just enough speed to catch the raised lip with my rear tire. I knew in an instant I had a flat.

I attempted to change the tube, but as I filled the new tube with CO2, the tire remained soft. A faulty valve on the tube had cost me my last cartridge of CO2. Now I was really stuck and made the mental preparations to walk the bike out.

Just as I was putting everything back together, a caravan of three cars came by led by a pick-up truck. I thumbed a ride up the mountain back to Dili village. I had hardly seen anyone all day and just happened to be there when a guide and his customers were coming back from a little adventure. It was also fortuitous that they has a pick-up truck. You don't see many of those in Taiwan. Ever grateful was I. Still, in the back of my mind I was thinking about all those calories I took in the night before that I wasn't going to spend.

One of the best things about riding in Taiwan is how hospitable people are. I received so much help and it was so great.

Having imposed myself upon the group, I had to oblige the offer of food, which was freshly caught and cooked mountain shrimp. I couldn't refuse.

My wife finally arranged to have our friend from Lugu come down and save my ass. It was noon and our friend wouldn't be available until the afternoon. I whiled away my time at the hostel owned by Mr. Wu, who may give Trong Chai a run for his money in the category of "manliness". Mr. Wu is an older gentleman, but looks much younger. He was wonderful conversation and a very awesome fellow. I am so grateful for his hospitality. We just chatted and sipped tea into the afternoon. I highly recommend his hostel if you would like to spend a weekend exploring the area.

"Jacky", our friend finally arrived and brought me off the mountain. We stopped off in Shuili for some Bawan "Taiwanese meatball" at one of the famous vendors.

We finally located a bike shop in Shuili where, after about 10min. the owner was able to find a road tube.

I got myself all set up for my ride back to Taichung.

When I finally got back on the road I hit a blistering pace back to Taichung. My cruising speed generally ranged between 35-46kph. I was hammering home. My legs felt perfect running smooth as butter. Whoosh-whoosh-whoosh! Everything was clicking and I was eating up scooters all along the Highway 3.

I finally reached my front door in 2:23:31 from Shuili. I had still managed to ride 138km despite the premature end to my trip. It was a failed trip, but it was still very epic and in many ways a huge success.

I think it also served as a reminder to myself to not get so careless. There were a few things I should have done differently. I know where I screwed up:

• I should have had one more tube with me.
• I should have carried a spare CO2 cartridge.
• I should have taken the Standard to Presta pump adapter off my kitchen table, where it has been for 6 weeks, and put it in my seat bag. These are very useful in Taiwan, where there are lots of standard pumps.

Anyways... I made it home safe.

Notes:

The Hostel is the Yen Shi Hostel

Tel:電話：049-2741100 Cell:手機：0937-295570

Yenshi Hostel: #7-2 Dili Village, Xinyi Township, Nantou County.
岩石休閒民宿地址：南投縣信義鄉地利村7-2號

Website:http://www.rock-home.com.tw/

Birthday Bicycling: Sanyi and Back

Fishing man

Saturday was not just election day for the special municipalities, but it was also my 36th birthday; a number that signifies my dreams of becoming a rock star or elite cyclist are to come to naught. Oh well... I can live with that if some of my weekends can be this fulfilling.

Don't mind those men in the upper left. They're not KMT gangsters

We started out by riding out to Daya Township so my wife could work her way past the KMT/Gangster thugs and cast her vote. A small group of thugs made their presence known to all and openly voiced their preferred support for the KMT candidates. No intimidation what-so-ever. Luckily, most people ignored the heavies and voted their conscience... I hope. DPP came out strong in Taichung County (Now New Taichung).

Daya's fabulous bike trail (right)

We left the polling place and made our way into downtown Daya for some local eats for breakfast. Daya provides a lovely example of when bike lanes go wrong.

Daya market

Like a lot of old townships, the center of town focuses on the temple. This is where we would find one of those gritty, local breakfast dives.

A Dive... even by Taiwan's Standards

The structure is no more than sheet metal, concrete, aluminum and those ubiquitous red-plastic stools that seem to come out of the save vat that everything else at the 99-dollar store comes from.

Joyce Enjoys Breakfast

Breakfast was the local favorite of fried noodles and chicken intestine soup. The breakfast of champions.

Childhood

When we finished our breakfast we headed down the Highway 10 toward the city of Feng Yuan. There were lots of people out biking and it brought a smile to my face to see so many kids issuing their declaration of personal independence from the seat of a bicycle.

Low Hanging Fruit

Before arriving in Feng Yuan, we stopped by the Anli cemetery for Plains Aborigines--the subject of a future post.

Historic Anli Graves

Uncle Ron

Fengyuan

We were soon in Feng Yuan, where we could hit the Highway 13 to Hou li, just at the border between Taichung and Miaoli counties. The Highway 13 is not pretty, not friendly, and not easy. What it is, is direct. It goes out toward Sanyi without having to climb any hills. My wife was looking for 100k on the day and was hoping to conserve her energy.

Hou-Feng Bike Trail

We eventually hooked up with the Hou-Feng bike trail at Xing ke rd. and after riding it for a while my wife decided she felt safer and would have better luck out on the main road.

Dangerous Cross Traffic

On weekends the bike trail is just too dangerous. Weaving novice riders on poorly fit bikes and no helmets make the trail a recipe for an injury. Some parts of the trail are just asking for hurt.

Out of Houli

We finally descended into the river valley between Houli and Sanyi.

Sanyi Viaduct

The river valley offers a brief respite of flats before the great hill climb up the Highway 13's intimidating viaduct that crests in Sanyi Township.

Climbing Higher

My wife found her pace and spun up to the 1200ft. crest non-stop. I was seriously impressed with her effort and determination. The climb is not easy by any measure.

Happy Rider

Joyce was very happy to be at the top and kept spinning until we could find a place to stop for lunch. Eventually we had a lunchbox and rest in Sanyi, where I pitched the idea of going home through the foothills of the interior.

Family Cycling Fun

Joyce in Sanyi

The scenery was amazing. We rolled through the farms in the little Hakka-style hamlets that dot Sanyi. I was a little worried for Joyce as we encountered several formidable hills... as steep as 12%-15% grade. She kept at it and only stopped once for a breather.

Joyce Learns To Love The Hill

After topping on especially nasty hill, we dropped into a facsimile of a Japanese colonial era train town at the location of the old Sanyi Train Station.

Bizarro World

It was a madhouse... A MADHOUSE!!!

There were meandering tourists all over the roads and it was all we could do not to hit them.. if only for the fear of damaging the bikes.

Hoiday Makers

Probably the roughest part of riding the Miaoli Local 49 rd. was the weekend traffic. Drivers just don't know how to handle themselves around cyclists and use the same tactics they use with scooters. This put Joyce a little on edge in what should have been an enjoyable ride through fun little rollers. I alway say, "Pick a line and don't move. They don't want to hit you... and if they do hit you it is because they want to and would have hit you anyways."

Bridge Pic

We followed the Miaoli #49 out to the Longteng Broken Bridge, a trestle built by the Japanese and later felled by a massive earthquake. The site has become a popular tourist destination for romantics.

Interesting Area

At the base of the hill near the bridge we emptied back into the river valley in a village where I made a few new discoveries for a later post. It was a gorgeous afternoon.

Burning Man

The valley was covered in a light haze from the local farmers burning off their rice fields before winter. And I wonder why I get asthma attacks.

Smoking Allowed

Taking A Rest

We finally made out way back to the Houli side of the river where a group of Giant riders arrived after taking a train in from Changhua and diddling around Sanyi. I could tell they were not regular cyclists as they were not immediately friendly. They sort of... ignored us at the 7-11 as we stood by our bikes drinking Fin despite the eye contact and greetings.

A GIANT Group of Riders

We then doubled back to Daya to check the election returns. I wanted five presents for my birthday, but I only got two.

We wended the day with 92km and 2752ft of elevation gain, so my wife was a little short of her goal, but not by much.

I love riding with her and posting her rides because she really embodies the spirit of cycling. She just jumps in and has a good time with plenty of enthusiasm. Even when things get rough, in retrospect it is always positive. I hope her rides encourage more people to get over their fears and become beginners.

It really made for a great birthday gift and a great prep day for my Sunday ride...

Dadu Shan Night Loop and Addendum

With my health and fitness climbing back up, I have started doing my night rides again. A lot of people think it is insane to ride on Taiwanese streets during the day, let alone at night.

Personally, I enjoy the night rides because there is less traffic and I can see where the vehicles are by their lights.

This particular night I was a little slow off the start as I was traveling West though a meaty North/South crosswind.

I always go up the Industrial Park 22 Road to IP 5 road and through the back door of the Tunghai Market to Shinshing Rd. The dodging and weaving through pedestrian traffic in the market is a thrill. I then cross Taichung Harbor road to "International Street", which is a faux cobblestone lane on a hill and the most idiotic series of uncontrolled, speed bumped intersections.

After snaking through the back roads I return to Taichung City on Xitun rd. This is where I have recorded my fastest time ever, topping out at 72.4kph. This time I was quite a bit slower through the wind.

I then hit the heavy traffic of the city. It becomes a real slugfest down there as I jockey around cars and scooters to keep my speed up while staying safe. On this night there were a few lost drivers who wouldn't give me room to get around them.

I then turn back on Wenxin Rd. to sprint between lights on my way home. This is where I didn't have it in the legs like I usually do.

That's why there's always a "next time". Full Stats

And:

On my rides I like to bring the ole ipod out. I picked up the new nano touch and like it more than the buttonless shuffle. So what was going through my ears on this ride. Here are the 15 songs that I listened to on this ride:

• The KKK Took My Baby Away--The Ramones
• Rooster--Alice In Chains
• TheWalls Came Down--The Call
• Sweet Child Of Mine--Guns & Roses
• Hells Bells--AC/DC
• Pump It Up--Elvis Costello
• Torreador Song--Bizet
• Planet Queen--T-Rex
• Puttin On The Ritz--Taco
• As Everything--The Fastbacks
• Middle Man Of Time--Young Fresh Fellows
• Are You Experienced--Jimi Hendrix
• Small Town Boy--Bronski Beat
• Change--The Lightning Seeds
• She Sells Sanctuary--The Cult

Some "Official Thoughts" On Why We Cycle: Freedom, Private Pleasures, Childhood Fantasies, and... SEX

"I've got a bike
You can ride it if you like
It's got a basket
A bell that rings
And things to make it look good
I'd give it to you if I could
But I borrowed it

You're the kind of girl that fits in with my world
I'll give you anything
Everything if you want things"-- Pink Floyd

A couple interesting articles came across the wire this morning and I thought I should share.

In the first article, British researchers have, for the first time, studied and isolated our motivations for throwing our legs over the saddle and taking a trip by bike. Here

Key perceptions of cycling were found to be very positive – people associate the act of cycling with freedom, being fun, bringing back memories of childhood and a pause in the stresses of daily life allowing a space for 'me time'. Respondents also enjoyed the pure physical pleasure of cycling along, being alive and in charge of your own propulsion.

I completely agree with the findings as I can easily slip into a state of semi-hypnosis as a stream of consciousness takes over. This feeling is usually interrupted by something absolutely thrilling.

The project, which was funded by the South Glaucestershire and Bristol City Cauncils along with the Bristol Social Marketing Centre ("er"..ahem!), is aimed at finding out why more people do not use cycling as an alternate form of transportation so that the cities can better promote utility and recreational cycling.

The researchers had cyclists draw and describe pictures of themselves biking, and recorded their positive or negative feelings.

“I'll be coming home from work. It's nice to get on your bike after a stressful day. You don't have to sit in the traffic. It's a stress buster. It is. It feels good.” (Male utility cyclist).

Many of the feelings described by this study sounds a lot like a few feelings from other worthwhile activities... which brings me to my second article.... about SEX. Here

Tim Krabbe, on his blog In The Saddle, struggles with the deadly sins of cycling... especially with the 5th Deadly Sin--Lust.

Krabbe takes a decidedly negative view of cycling and sex... hopefully no sex while cycling, but I think he may be a little off the mark.

According to Krabbe,

Cycling is not a sexy sport. Perhaps occasionally it is, during a picturesque sun-drenched stage of the Tour de France, the camera dwelling on riders pouring water suggestively over their gasping faces… the hot steaming tarmac, tanned skin and toned thighs bulging beneath lycra, a flicker of the erotic, a flutter of the housewife’s heart… But on the whole, and especially in the winter off-season, cycling is mostly unglamorous drudgery undertaken beneath grey skies and on grimy roads.

As a racing cyclist the outside world views you with, at best, indifference, at worst suspicion. Lust doesn’t even come into it. As the weekend rolls around and the normal world embarks upon its escape from the working week - drinking, pubs, clubs, bars, dancing, flirting, falling over – us lot are packing in the carbs and heading to bed with a warm milky drink. The pursuits of hedonism and of peak athletic condition mix about as well as a heavily laced house party sangria – it’s fun at first, but before you know it you’re cowering under your duvet praying that Monday morning never arrives.

As a young single male, forgoing such social activities precludes most opportunities for finding a suitable (or even unsuitable, I’m not fussy) female companion to befriend and copulate with and to do all the stuff that normal couples would do. Which probably doesn’t include riding bikes, or at least any kind of cycling that isn’t on dorky rental bikes through Center Parcs in matching cagoules (when any female refers to cycling as ’biking’ it is this vision of holiday catalogue activities to which they are referring).

Cycling and sex are very much strangers, or at least acquaintances who only grudgingly accept the existence of the other. And so it is with some fervor that the cycling world leaps upon its few pin-ups; whether it’s Victoria Pendleton proving that you can combine domination of women’s track sprinting with posing for FHM (above), or cycling’s original (and only?) Italian stallion Mario Cippolini passing off looks – such as this, this, and even this – that the rest of the peloton couldn’t possibly attempt.

Cycling, especially on a road bike, makes anyone look sexy. Mountain bikes on the road make the riders look like frogs when you pull them out of the water... but riders on road bikes just look athletic, graceful and... well... sexy. Despite the homophobic crap we get from angry, closet gays about lycra, people out being active are being attractive. The bicycle also creates a conversation starter with enough innuendo to impress a 1970's game show question writer.

Now... Krabbes might not be sexy, but cycling sure is.

Also:

• Giant Asia will be representing Taiwan in the Malaysian Tour of Langkawi stage race.
• Taichung Bike Week is coming! No, this is not where Discovery Channel cameramen get into a cage with giant, man-eating bikes (but I would love to see it). This is getting big.

Watch Taiwanese Cyclist Win Gold!

Here is a great video that shows how Taiwanese cyclist, Hsiao Mei-yu, won the gold medal at the 100k in the Asian Games at Guangzhou.

Hsiao (in blue and white) came in from the outside to put herself in good position for a sprint finish just ahead of the rest of the field. Nobody was expecting it.

In less speedy fashion, I started my 50k Wednesday night rides again. For one long section the lights were out along the road and I think I hit every sewer cap, branch, and pothole. It didn't help that I over inflated my rear tire... whoops! Here's how things are looking.