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Showing posts with label Okinawan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Okinawan. Show all posts

Monday, November 1, 2010

Cycling Through History: The Mudan Incident and China's Pacific Aspirations

Remains Of A Shinto Shrine

As I try to unsuccessfully shoehorn too much information into too little space, I will write a little history behind an amazing bike ride.

A few weeks ago we did a tour around Taiwan’s Heng Chun Peninsula, which was not only a marvelous scenic tour, but it also provided a very provocative backdrop for some much larger issues that continue to swirl around the current geopolitics of East Asia.

In the words of the historian, Paul Cohen, history can be divided into three basic pieces; event, experience and myth. The event makes its presence known through the simple act of recording an event to inform others. The experience is made up of the subjectivities of witnesses whose points of view and biases contribute to a full, layered understanding of the event, limited only by the perception of the senses. The myth is the third, and most controversial aspect of history, in which political actors deploy the event and experiential aspects of history in an attempt to subvert them into a narrative that serves to promote and extend the ideologies and political goals of a given power.

The implications of the events that took place between 1871 and 1874 in the Mudan area on the Heng Chun Peninsula would not only serve to shape Taiwan’s experience, but the effects would resonate throughout the 20th Century and echo deep into the framework of contemporary foreign policy, state ideology, ethnicity, political gamesmanship and conflicts of sovereignty or suzerainty.

The events sparked in 1871 by a passing typhoon and their later implication are again brought to the fore in light of the recent row between Japan, China, Taiwan and the United States over the disputed Senkaku islands. The intelligent and insightful academic and blogger, Michael Turton, who also joined us on our ride, has been keeping a detailed commentary on the recent Senkaku dust up here, here, here, here, here, here . I hope this piece will not only delve into Taiwan’s unique history as a Pacific society (which is too often framed by its relationship to China as opposed to other islands or political entities), but I also hope I can add a little depth to understanding the historical and future emphasis regional powers have placed on projecting their power into the Pacific.



Michael Rides To Shi Men

The Political Backdrop:

For much of recorded history Taiwan and the outlying islands of Okinawa (Ryukyus), Senkakus, Spratleys and other island groups were regarded with general ambiguity by the major regional powers. Despite the hopeful speculation of Chinese nationalists, Taiwan and other Pacific islands did not exist in the mind-space of the Middle Kingdom until 1609, when Chen Di documented the “savages” he encountered on a quarantine mission against illegal trading. Before the late 17th Century and the dynamic policies of the Qing Empire, the Middle Kingdom was an area imagined as one “bound by the mountains and the seas.”

By the late 19th Century, amid increasing pressure applied by European and American colonial enterprises, the two great powers of East Asia, the Qing (later China) and the Tokugawa Shogunate of Japan, were in turmoil. The Tokugawa Shogun was overthrown by a conglomerate of other powerful lords (daimyo) under the figurehead of the Meiji Emperor. Japan rapidly shifted from a feudal economy to a Western-style capitalist economy. The Meiji Restoration, which began in 1868, emphasized notions of social darwinism and modernism in an effort to lead, what it termed, “The Yellow Races of Asia” in competition with the West. This new paradigm for modern Japan led to Japan’s rapid industrialization and territorial expansion.

Meanwhile, the Opium wars and their indemnities had severely crippled the Qing and impaired its ability to effectively govern the vast territories and frontiers it had incorporated into the empire following the reign of the Kangxi Emperor (1661-1722). The Qing also lost control of much of the Lower Yangzi Valley to the Taiping Rebels between 1850 and 1864 depriving them of the tax revenues from Nanjing and surrounding areas. Despite several attempts to institute reforms and modernization programs, the Empress Dowager Cixi did not have the power to mobilize the decrepit political elite to reform.

Sign Along the 199

The Okniawa (Ryukyu) Island chain, which spans the sea between Kyushu and Taiwan, had been a dual tributary state of both the Ming, and Satsuma daimyo. Although the Ryukyus were governed as a separate kingdom, the powerful Satsuma Shogun invaded in 1609 to bring the Ryukyus under its sway. The Ryukyu kingdom existed simultaneously as a tributary state to the Satsuma, Tokugawa and the Ming. By the late 19th Century, the powerful shogun behind the emperor, were looking to expand their newly consolidated power beyond the traditional borders of Japan as the leaders of the “Yellow Race”. The Meiji Emperor placed the Ryukyus under the administrative control of Kagoshima prefecture.

One the eve of November 6, 1871, Taiwan was governed as a special frontier prefecture of Fujian Province. Most of Taiwan was regarded as existing “outside the realm” with the Qing only claiming to exercise tenuous control over specific areas delineated by a border, which was sporadically enforced by military colonies consisting of Plains Aborigines. The mountainous interior and the East coast lay “beyond the pale" and was characterized by Qing gazetteers as a savage and barbaric place, inhabited by a savage and barbaric people.

Original Grave Marker

The Wreck:

On October 18, 1871, a small flotilla of ships carrying Nintouzei taxes, sailed into the path of a late typhoon. One ship was thrown far off course and on November 6, wrecked on the eastern coast of Taiwan’s Hengchun Peninsula. The 66 survivors hiked into the mountains in search of salvation and soon came upon the village of Mudan.

Some stories of what transpired differ, but one popular telling is that the Mudan captured the Okinawans and brought them to some local Hakka businessmen and their Plains Aborigine interpreter to trade for valuable goods, such as bolts of cloth and metal.

When a deal could not be reached the Mudan became enraged and began killing the Okinawan sailors. When the carnage was over only 12 Okinawans remained alive and were shepherded out to safety. The Mudan collected the severed heads and returned to their village with plenty of skulls to fill a head shelf.

The businessmen and the interpreter collected the corpses and built a small tomb for the headless bodies and took it upon themselves to become the caretakers of the tomb.

Japanese Memorial Stele

The Taiwan Invasion:

Three years later Japan was eager to begin testing the waters for its future colonial ambitions and further sought to test the resolve of its powerful neighbors in the face of Japanese expansion.

In May 1874, Japan used the earlier murder of the Okinawan sailors to demand compensation from the Qing. In doing so, Japan ultimately asserted a retroactive sovereignty over Okinawa and further mounted a challenge to the Qing commitment to Taiwan.

Initially, the Qing refused, claiming that the sailors were killed outside Qing jurisdiction and thus the government could not be held responsible for their deaths. The rejection of Qing sovereignty over Taiwan’s interior paved the way for Japan to send an expeditionary force to Taiwan in a “punitive” campaign against the Mudan.

In May 1874, the expeditionary force numbering 3600 men, landed around Checheng to begin operations against the Mudan. The Japanese claimed the operation was a major success in the Battle of Stone Gate, with approximately 30 indigenes killed and 29 Japanese either killed or wounded in action. It has also been recorded that 561 Japanese soldiers died of malaria.

In the end the Qing relented and agreed to pay 500,000 taels of gold and a Japanese police force entered Okinawa to enforce a Japanese ban on trade with the Qing.

Mudan Villager

The Political Fallout:

Japan’s experience during the Mudan incident framed the relationship between the Japanese Empire and its future colonies in the Pacific. The events that transpired on the Heng Chun Peninsula between 1871 and 1874 further defined how the Japanese civilizing project would conduct its relationship with indigenous and colonized peoples in its push into “the south” and reconfigure the Japanese empire into a far reaching, multi-ethnic polity.

Following the trumped up indignation at having its Okinawan “barbarians” murdered on Taiwan, in which the newly reconfigured empire successfully projected military power overseas, Japan embarked on its first colonial venture in Hokkaido (1884) in which the Meiji government instituted an official policy to bring their plans for colonial expansion to fruition. The resulting Japanese policy on Taiwan, which Japan acquired in 1895, published twenty years before the onset of their rule on Taiwan, cast Taiwanese aborigines as "vicious, violent and cruel" and concluded "this is a pitfall of the world; we must get rid of them all"

The indigenous people on Taiwan and on other islands were regarded by the Japanese project as savage, bloodthirsty wildmen who needed to be exterminated or transformed through Japanese colonialism into “loyal subjects”.

Japan continued to assert itself in the Asia-Pacific region as capable civilizers and administrators of savage frontiers. Following its League of Nations trusteeship over large tracts of the Pacific, which it would later colonize, the Empire of Japan succeeded in joining the European powers on equal footing.

The Mudan Incident was viewed by the Japanese as such a pivotal event in its path to greatness, that it became the site of Japan’s first colonial monument. In the 1920’s a stele marker was placed at the Okinawan grave-site, which memorializes the grave of “Greater Japan’s Okinawan Barbarians.” The wording is novel in that it encapsulates the Japanese colonial view of “Greater Japan” or “大日本”. Moreover, it uses the common and arguably pejorative term, Okinawan Barbarians“琉球藩民“ to firmly place the Okinawans within the Japanese colonial framework as inferior and in need of Japan’s civilizing project. A larger monument and Shinto shrine was placed on a hill overlooking the Stone Gate battlefield.

Battlefield Monument: Faded Words "Formosan Race" before those words changed in meaning.

Transformation

With Japan’s defeat at the close of WWII, Taiwan was placed under the administration of Chiang Kai-sheck’s Republic of China pending a formal solution to the problem of Taiwan’s sovereignty after 50 years as a Japanese colony.

Due to several factors involving regional and global powers, Chiang’s ROC was forced to retreat from China to Taiwan, where the Chinese nationalists used their monopoly on power and US aid to remain as a single party authoritarian state that represented only the views of a very small minority of Taiwan’s population.

The ROC enforced its own form of colonization on Taiwan that mirrors the Japanese effort in many ways. Taiwanese were often excluded from joining the powerful mainlander elite for their inability to reconcile the Taiwanese experience as Japanese colonial subjects with the ROC; a government that viewed Taiwanese as Japanese collaborators.

For the ROC, the Mudan Incident and the surrounding historiography was reimagined by the central state apparatus to conform to the anti-Japanese undercurrent of Chinese nationalist ideology. Indigenous revolts against the Japanese were recast as being “pro-Chinese nationalist” in nature, and indigenous peoples were portrayed as “High Mountain Chinese Compatriots” loyal to the teachings of Sun Yat-sen, which, ironically, cast the indigenes as inferior.

As symbols and figureheads of the Japanese empire were replaced with symbols and figureheads of the ROC, the markers at Mudan were redeployed as expressions of “Greater China”. The monument overlooking the battlefield at Stone Gate was re-inscribed with the now faded characters for the “Taiwan/Formosan Race”—an attempt to draw the indigenes of Taiwan into the racialist construct espoused by Chinese nationalism which calls for Han race to rise up as the master race of Asia and lead the “degraded peoples” to glory against the European powers. Echoes of these views can still be heard in the rhetoric Taiwan’s president, Ma Ying-jiu uses on occasion when defining his goals or discussing indigenous peoples.

In a more curious move, during the 1970’s, at the height of the first clash between the governments of Taiwan, China and Japan over the Senkakus, the marker of the Okinawan grave was defaced to remove any reference to “Greater Japan”, and its claim to Okinawa. This move not only erased the Japanese from the story, but it also effectively treated Okinawa’s sovereignty with an undertone of ambiguity, with the inference that it could be read as “our” Okinawan barbarians… the “our” meaning “Chinese” and advancing territorial claims further into the Pacific – thus laying a retroactive territorial claim to a set of pacific islands.

Shi Men Battlefield

Conclusion:

With the new dispute over the Senkaku islets, in which Taiwan’s ROC government has again inserted itself on behalf of some imaginary traditional Chinese racial nation, the Chinese, with the help of Taiwan’s government, are beginning to resemble the early Japanese empire as they selectively historicize events to fit their political projects and make anachronous and selective claims to a set of Pacific islands that can become another prefabricated conflict with a view on unrelated political ends in a bid for resources and regional influence.

In the midst of a 21st century conflict the Mudan Incident stands as a historical backdrop to the events that are currently unfolding in the Asia-Pacific region.

Our bike trip through the Mudan battlefield could not have been more appropriate for these interesting times.

*Thanks to James Boyden of Sponge Bear for some advice on the proper Japanese nomenclature*

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Touring Taiwan's Tip: Cycling Through Kenting and the Heng Chun Peninsula

Toward Ouluanpi

This weekend Michael T. invited my wife and I out for a weekend of riding around Taiwan's beautiful Heng Chun Peninsula. Until this weekend, my wife, Joyce, had only logged about 150km on her new Colnago, but has been working hard to become a better rider. She has taken to riding like a star pupil in school and has done her reading and research into all sorts of road bike related issues so that she will have a more complete understanding of what she is engaged in. Let's just say she made the bookstore extremely happy this month. She also invested in a pair of Assos biking shorts, which proved that spending a little more... in the right spot... can make a world of difference. This weekend she was ready to try her first extended tour away from home.

The Heng Chun Peninsula is a wonderful place to begin an education, both on the bike... and about this beautiful island. The green mountains, rolling hills and shimmering seascapes between Ping Tung and Kenting are dotted with historic and pre-historic sites that can each unfold a thousand narratives of Taiwan's unique experience with striking depth and poignancy. These quiet treasures are made even more alluring in the backdrop of the rolling landscape.

We felt fortunate to be biking through this landscape, which is best when enjoyed with friends.


Making A Batch of Betel Nut

After evacuating Taichung Friday night, we arrived at our digs at the hot springs just up the road from Che Cheng, which is where the Japanese landed to mount a punitive campaign against the people of Mudan Village in 1874, in retaliation for the killing of 54 Okinawans.

Mudan

A light rain the night before brought temperatures down, which was excellent for riding. The water droplets that hang on every leaf have way of making the jungle shine in technicolor hues of green. It is absolutely unbelievable.

We headed out along the Ping Tung Local Rd. 199 that leads across the hills to the other side of the peninsula. Along the route we passed through the Stone Gate, where the Mudan and Japanese forces clashed.

A monument high on a hill marks the famous battle.

Battle Memorial

Unfortunately for poor Joyce, the morning started out with a pretty significant hill climb and I hoped it would be the only one. The climb became her first significant climb and was pretty rough on her... but she survived and made it to the top.

Shi men

We could look down on the town of Shi Men, where I once interviewed a very old woman who remembered the days before the Japanese government could enforce the moratorium on head hunting, a practice that had once been conducted by both highland and lowland indigenous groups.


The Interior

A Mountain Lake

When you live in the city it is too easy to forget how expansive Taiwan's wilderness can be. Not all of Taiwan is tamed or paved. For a cyclist it is even more exciting that there are so many forestry roads that traverse the hills and jungles.

Joyce Smokes The Competition

On our way East on the 199, we were periodically joined by other cyclists, who were also looking for a weekend retreat from city life. One couple had their college-aged son follow them in the car for support.

A Water Stop

As we coasted through some of the small indigenous villages that dot central Taiwan, we were often greeted by spontaneous cheers from the local children who delighted in seeing us pass through. They were not stupidly mocking, or trying to be funny, but were genuinely excited. That is such a great thing about Taiwan. People are so supportive of cyclists.

Adoring Fans

At the point where the 199 and 199甲 split, three groups of cyclists converged at the same time and decided to pose for pictures. The couple with the car and a group from Chia yi, led by a guy who insisted on blasting us with Placido Domingo from his bike stereo. Bike stereos should be outlawed... PERIOD!

Cycling People

Despite our annoyance with these clowns, we posed for a picture as fellow cyclists.

The Pacific

Just on the other side of a hill we could see the cool waters of the Pacific Ocean.


Community Center

At the bottom of a screamingly beautiful descent, we stopped at XuHai Village at the police station, where they offer water and supplies to passing cyclists.

A Cyclist's Needs

The Circus

It was time to ditch the circus show and head south on the Highway 26.

Hugging The Coast

The Highway 26 passes through a missile battery and had been off limits to civilians for many years until is was finally opened to regular traffic a few years ago. The narrow road hugs the coast and remains largely deserted except for the occasional military convoy.


Amazing!

The military engineers who designed this road during the peak of the Cold War must have been cyclists as it looks like it was designed with road bikes in mind. The road combined with the fantastic seascape makes for some awesome riding. The emerald cliffs and bright blue seas are simply a sight to behold. The sights are made even more grand on a bicycle that eliminates the artificial limitation made by window frames. If surfers can have "The Perfect Wave", cyclists must have the, "Perfect Road". If this is the case then I have a nominee right here.

The Nag Strikes A Pose

Michael Hammers Along The Coast

After a we stopped in GangZai for lunch, a town that is only on the map to provide dune buggy recreation to tourists, we hit another hill climb. The climbs and rollers were wearing on Joyce, but she stuck them out and gave her full commitment to completing the hills. It was an amazing effort.

Buffalo

We stopped for a break near a little roadside grove where some water buffalo were feeding. They are such weird animals and always interesting to watch. They were once a ubiquitous sight in western Taiwan, but now they can hardly be seen... replaced by machinery and agricultural decline.

Cyclocross Series?

We were nearing the top of the last climb when we ran into a patch of construction combined with a mad rush of tour busses, a rarity on our ride, and Joyce had just about had enough of the madness. We were on "a hill too far."

At the top of the hill we stopped for about 30 min. and took in some snacks and sport drink. Joyce was soon back in good humor and vowed to finish the ride. Soon, she was smiling again and enjoying the scenery as she spun away at an awesome cadence.

Manzhou

The valley into Manzhou is an absolute wonder. The green pastures and mountains can really slow down a ride with too many photo and rubber necking opportunities.

Afternoon Riding

As flavor of the sun shifted to the afternoon, we rolled through Manzhou, where a few remnants of its days as an outpost on a wild frontier were still visible.


The Chemist

Portraiture

We finally stopped rolling for the day in Jialeshui, near the eastern tip of the peninsula. Unfortunately, we were staying at a little hostel frequented by surfers and beach bums. There were a few mattresses on the floor, no sheets, no security, and in the middle of the night we had two more strangers enter our room to sleep.

The other foreign guests were surfers and triathletes. It is a different kind of vibe that you don't feel when you meet other cyclists. It was an atmosphere of cliquishness and facade, with all the weight of a cocktail party conversation. It was as if people were exchanging non-committal pleasantries all night. Just strange. Mostly foreigners from all over. I miss the friendliness exchanged by most other cyclists.

Quiet Night

Still, the views were relaxing and it was a place to stay. There may have been a two or three better hostels, but that wasn't what we found.

Michael's Last Moments At The Winson... EVER!!!

When we awoke, we had a hard time finding food to help us fuel our way to Kenting. We eventually found a truck selling baozi and stopped to eat at a little shop where the locals drop by to stuff a craw full of indigenous style betel nut. This kind is made with the traditional lime paste and fresh nuts... no amphetamine kicker. This is really indicative of many of the villages around southern Taiwan that bast a large number of ex-aborigines and the descendants of some subgroups of Siraya and Makado people who migrated to more remote locations and to the Taidong region. Many of the indigenous traditions and cultures are simply regarded as local without the connection to the indigenous past.

Traditional Betel Nut Kit

We hugged the Highway 26 all the way up to the bluff above the ocean. It made a wonderful vantage point to take in the sights. Joyce was going strong again and enjoying the rolling waves of green hills and blue seas.


Turtonus Maximus

Atop A Climb

Joyce Opens A Can Of Whup-ass

From the cliff-tops we edged West toward the old lighthouse at Ouluanbi, which was bought for $100 by a British expedition and remains one of the world's only fortified light houses. British bought the land from the Mudan people as the Qing empire denied control over the area and several ships owned by foreign merchants had run aground on the reefs and sandbars.

Muggin

Laying On The Beach

At last we made it to Kenting town. In Kenting it is Spring Break all-year-round. Tourists lounge around on beaches, play in the surf, scour the streets looking for crap to buy out of sheer boredom, and the occasional gang of young foreigners drops in to act like drunken louts.
It is a beach town.
Swimsuit Competition

I brought my bike down to soak up some rays to give it a deeper orange color that might make George Hamilton weepy with envy.

Caesar Park Beach

Dajianshan

Cape Town has Table Mountain, Gibraltar has its rock. Kenting has DaJianShan lording over the town below... and it is a wonderful sight. I have climbed up it six or seven times, but I don't know if people are still doing that. The views are incredible... and the fine is only NT3000.

Not As Famous as the Aerosmith Album of the Same Name

Somewhere in the shadow of the rock I got a flat tire and luckily every 7-11 is equipped with a bicycle pump as my CO2 cartridge misfired and I only filled to 40psi. I love this about Taiwan.

Beachey Keen!

We continued on to Maobitou side of the cape where my least favorite beach sits. The beach next to the 3rd Nuclear Power Plant is so wrong in so many ways that it makes me resentful of the place. it is everything I feel a beach shouldn't be.

3rd Nuclear Power Plant: Radiation Licking Good!

The 3rd Nuclear Power Plant is just plain wrong sitting there on a reef. In the mid-80's the KMT authoritarian government decided they needed a third nuke plant and so, I have been told by some reliable sources, the Pingtung County Commissioner and a powerful organized crime figure were awarded a large sum of money and property within the Kenting National Park, in exchange for convincing the people of Pingtung County and the areas surrounding the proposed site, to support the project. There was a lot of strong-arming, fraud, and lying that got the deal passed. It is just sickening!

Lake

On the way back toward Checheng, we stopped at the freshwater lake that has wowed visitors for centuries. W.A. Pickering made a reference to this lake in his memoirs.

Best Riding Buddies

Lunch

For lunch we stopped at the little port town of Shanhai. When we asked the shop owner if they had a menu, we were told that they do not have a menu and only sell whatever comes in that day. At that moment she took the lid off a couple coolers full of freshly caught fish and we just took some guessed and had the most wonderful seafood luch... for NT 350.

Storm Clouds And Rain... All Around My Door

We pedaled on about a half-step in front of a massive thunder storm that would eventually drench southern Taiwan. The clouds loomed above with the occasional droplet of rain threatening to bring the whole sky down on our heads. It just made us pedal faster.

I'll Take The Bottle Of Rum Instead

I did have to stop at the Yoho Bike hotel, which costs WAY too much (NT8000 per night/2 bed) and is nowhere near Kenting town. Not the most conveniently located hotel for riders, but the road is a not bad for biking.

Yay!

It was all just easy riding back into Checheng, where Joyce caught the sign leading to the graves of the Okinawan sailors killed in 1871. The visit to the gravesite served as the perfect capstone to a wonderful tour of the Heng Chun Peninsula.

Joyce was phenomenal with so few rides under her belt. I can't believe how well she rode. She nearly doubled her total mileage in this single trip.

Okinawan Grave Site

Wet Weather

*Read Michael's post on the ride: HERE


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