Climbing A Mountain Of Tea: Sanlinxi on Nantou Route 49 and 49-1

For my last weekend in my thirties I thought I should do something bold. I had a couple ideas in mind, but I needed to check the weather and see when I could get out of the house.

As soon as I saw the yellow glow of the rising sun reflect off the neighbouring high-rise, I took a gulp and knew where I was going-- I would be heading to Sanlinxi--the hard way.

There is the main road to the tea farming district of Sanlinxi, the 151, which snakes its way way past the outdoor tourism megaplex of Sitou and into the thinning mountain air. I have climbed this road a few times and I was looking for something different.

I had only ever descended the Nantou Route 49 and we were constantly being assured that somewhere beyond the towering wall of white mist lay the most amazing panoramic views. This time I was ready for some vistas.



I chugged along to Zhushan (Jhushan) in about 90min. and then refuelled at the 7-11 that sits about four blocks inside the Route 149. I took three mini-packs of Gummi Bears to act as my energy gels as hey are cheaper, contain a third more calories than a gel, they taste better and are more fun to eat as they look like little tiny bears.



The mountains loomed ahead with the immediacy Taiwan's mountains all seem to possess. The Route  149 makes a quick right and the Route 49 keeps heading straight until it smashed head-on into a cliff that it makes no attempt to circumnavigate.



Before any serious climbing could commence, I had to stop at the absurd sight of a large African bird looming over the roadway. It must be the new prestige pet to replace the husky; another inappropriate animal for this environment. The ostrich was not taking visitors andI left before I could see any Moa (Ouch! Sorry about that).



Although I had originally planned to take the 49 all the way up, I was lured into taking the 41-1. With names such as "Sky Ladder", how could I go wrong? It was going to Sanlinxi anyway. Fortunately that distance marker is about twice as far as the true destination.



My legs were feeling a bit tired from my Thursday night ride (1650 calories in 90min) and I started to regret not resting another day.

The landscape and my familiar landmarks started to warp into unfamiliar shapes as I edged higher above the plain.



I was smack in the middle of tea country. It is amazing how much tea is being grown, but totally hidden from view.



The altitude profile on the Route 49/49-1 is far, far steeper than on the 151. I was forced to battle lengthy stretches at 10 percent or more without the luxury of a switchback or gear spinning shelf. It was just a continual grind that churned my legs into hamburger.



Despite being an alternate route by a good margin, the road conditions on the lower sections were simply praiseworthy.

I found a ridge near the end of the 49-1 to spin the amino acids out on and felt a bit better about my prospects.



The 49-1 descended and smacked into the 49. I was sorely disappointed that the "Sky Ladder" has been less spectacular than what I remembered from the Route 49.

As soon as I turned the corner off the 49-1, the mountains came into view. It is really easy to forget how many of the damned things we have here in Taiwan. Just ripples upon ripples of vertical real estate.



I kept at it and simply enjoyed being almost completely alone out on the roads. I imagine all the KOM contenders took a weekend off from the hills and with the marathon as the sport dejour in Taiwan as marathon chic is cheaper and easier to fudge than cycling chic, there are simply fewer cyclists to be seen in general. The mountains were mine!



After a rough dip about three quarters of the way up, the road becomes a narrow minefield of uneven slag. It becomes especially tedious travelling at a slow, climbing pace and takes a lot of attention away from soaking up the views.



One of the greatest things about the Route 49 is that for large sections it faces outward toward the direction you started the climb. You can look back at your progress and really get a feel for the scope of what you are doing.



I was well past the point of no-return and found myself a little behind schedule. I was forced to continue upward along a slice of paved track through the tea fields.



That little ribbon of roadway wrapped itself around every fold and contour on that hillside in a confusing boy scout knot amid layers upon layers of tea.



I could look back and still see that I could almost reach out and touch Zhushan, but I was merely elevated above the town by some 2000 meters.



The road finally flattened out and I was able to build up a little bit of speed. I thought I could see the 151 to Sanlinxi just on the opposite hillside.



I took one last look over the mountains before disappearing into a cool cedar grove at the end of the Nantou Route 49.



After a celebratory photo, I soaked up the biting chill as I dropped back down into the warmth of the flats.

As I beat it home, I was surprised how fast I was going with a crosswind and a little boost from a slight descent.

I stopped to assist a poor rider who was walking with a flat tire. He had no spare, no pump and didn't know how to change a flat. We have all been there at some point or another in life, and the best you can do is to lend a hand. He was so grateful for the cycling courtesy that we all (hopefully) share.





THAT!!! That was a good day on the bike. Rewarding to the last. This is what 5581 calories of hard work looks like.

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