Gas Giants?: A Crude Ride Along Taiwan's Petroleum Parkway (中油專用道路)

Cycling and fossil fuels seem to go together like oil and... er....

Anyway, for my first ride of the Lunar New Year holiday I decided to take my quest for the little road northward into Miaoli County for a chance to bisect the range of hills between the Highway 3 and the coast.

I have taken most of the major and minor routes that traverse these ridges-- the 130, the 60, 24, 26, and the others.... But I wanted to see if it was possible to climb to the top and follow the ridge line for the length of the hills. It looked like a project. Now that I have completed this ride and reported on it, I have saved any of you curious souls out there from having to unnecessarily tempt fate. If you have ever chugged up the Highway 3 between Jhuolan and Dahu, and wondered what kind of roads might be etched along those emerald peaks... look no further for I have come down the mountain with such knowledge.



The day started out clear and promising, but Miaoli is the meteorological gateway to Taipei and can quickly transition from sunny and clear to gloomy, cold and wet.



As I passed Dahu, I saw a road that might provide an early ascent to the ridge I was gunning for. I crossed the Bi'an Bridge and immediately launched myself upward along never-ending ramp of high percentage pain. The ramps never seemed to end.

Eventually I slumped over my handlebars at the top, only to find a monastery and a walking path in the direction I had hoped to take. Sometimes Google Maps is too optimistic and Apple Maps too pessimistic. It can be a coin toss as to whether a road is actually passable by road bike or merely a hiking trail.



I had wasted a tremendous amount of glycogen on a gamble that didn't pay off and I did;t need any more dead ends complicating my ride. I was about to enter the unknown and I needed a little more assurance that I was not about to commit precious time and fuel on discovering Taiwan's best, lost dead end.



My hope was that the CPC Industrial Road (中油專用道路) would be my ticket to a hilltop tour of Miaoli County and a rendezvous with the Route 60 that would lead me out to a number of familiar roads that I could use to get home with the wind at my back.

The CPC Industrial Road starts just off the Highway 6 past Dahu at the point where the 72 Expressway disappears into the mountain below Gong Guan.

The road follows a terrestrial vein of liquid oil for the entire length of the hills between the Houlong and Da-an Rivers.

Oil was first discovered at the site in the 1860's and later exploited by the Japanese colonial administration. Today, Taiwan pumps 22,000 barrels of oil per day and refines its crude oil in four different refineries. This explains the refineries and petrochemical plants I have seen between Gong-guan and Toufen.



I knew I needed to be mindful of the road and there could be several service roads that lead to oil wells or other industrial sites. This kept me busy at my phone GPS and put a real drain on my battery life.



This really started out as a strange road. Aside from the hissing and steaming trees that had been rigged with misting nozzles to create an otherworldly effect similar to Tim the Enchanter, there were massive luxury properties with massive gates, a few imposing hostels, tiny farming shacks and several fenced off oil wells quietly littering the roadside.

I wondered if this road might be a total dud.



I nervously checked and rechecked my location and at the top of the hill I made the fateful decision to continue southward... just as a thick blanket of fog doused the area in a quiet, swirling chill.



The feeling was otherworldly as I slowly rolled forward into the clouds. The landscape seemed to have closed in on me and the forest ebbed and floated in and out of focus. I tried to stay glued to the road and not mistake the void for a rare patch of smooth tarmac.



Visibility was between 6 to 10 meters at most times. At one point I almost ran straight into a line of four ghosts hovering in a patch of brightly lit fog-- ghosts that turned out to be men from a work crew who had lost their truck in the fog. I was surprised a d relieved to see other human beings up there in those conditions and they were all so silent. I finally broke the eerie quiet with a question about the road conditions and was informed that the roads ahead are technically passable to Tongluo, but not recommended.

I have heard that before and found beautiful roads and brushed off the comment as something from a person who underestimates the powers of a bicycle.



Even more fog sifted through the tangled canopy above as I disappeared into a chunky path of fragmented cement, mud and ground cover. I dismounted a few timed to walk down descents that were too steep and degraded to ride safely. The last thing I needed was a broken collarbone in an area like that.



Somewhere in the tunnel of shadow and light, I surprised a true of macaques that woofed at me as I passed. It was enough to make me start whistling in the dark to ward off any more surprises. To make matters worse, my constant GPS checks had sucked my battery life down to 20% and I was still a long way from the familiar Route 60.



As soon as I turned a corner and thought I was getting somewhere, I found I was on the wrong road. My GPS was unstable in the terrain and I had plotted the wrong road. That led to a hike  through some orchard or another and up another road. I soon found I my road was blocked by a pack of angry dogs. Being true to Taiwan, the most aggressive of the bunch were a chihuahua that wanted a piece of my heel, and an ill tempered corgi. I was in no position to turn back and had to face off with a pack of unruly hounds. The owner came out and simply ignored the situation as he got into his truck. 

I was soon dropping off down the back of the hill in zero visibility with the hope that any more dogs would not come charging through the orchards to rip me apart in an area so desolate nobody would hear my screams. 

I saw an arrow spray painted on the road and followed it in the direction of the bigger road. It led me deeper and deeper into an eroding creek bed that I hoped would not be the only way out. After sparingly checking my GPS, I concluded that I had missed the real road and had to hike back up into the fogged-in orchard if I was going to have any hope of escaping before dark. 



I emerged from the forest and back out into orchard land. I could hear a chainsaw somewhere in the whiteout and felt some relief before a hellhound burst out of a hidden driveway to send me into a panicked sprint toward the unknown up ahead. 

Boom! I rolled across the path of the rest stop at the top on the Route 60. I knew where I was. Just as the fog became a wet fog, I was in familiar territory. 

I slid down the hill toward the Route 119 and the Route 49 until I was limping along through Sanyi on the Highway 13 toward home. 

I am sure there were some fantastic views from up there. The roads were horrendous and a complete safety hazard. A road bike does not belong up there at all... and it was a hell of an adventure... in retrospect. 

And now I know what is up on that hilltop. 

Little Roads Make Big Rides: 東崎街,苗56, 花草坑農路, 130, 苗54-1, 苗49, 苗51-1

A couple weeks ago I completed an absolute gem of a ride without going too far from home. For the majority of my ride I was alone with no other company other than the occasional eagle hovering above my shoulder or the garbled echo of a Taiwanese radio station being pumped into the orchards over a rusty sound system. 

Considering I was never really more than a dozen of so kilometers from busy towns and more densely populated cities, this type of cycling solitude is almost unheard of. 

It was only by stringing together a few country roads that I was able to put it all together into a single gleamingly clear day of riding. 

(I would love to provide a map, but it seems my mapping tool is experiencing some trouble.)



The official beginning of this ride was in Dongshih, on the Dongqi St. (東崎街). 



Dongqi St. is a shallow climb through the orchards on the ridge above Dongshih. It eventually tops off with a short climb before descending into the Da-an River. 



I briefly linked to the riverside viaduct that leads back to Jhuolan where I caught up with the old Route 55 better known as Pinglin Rd. 



Pinglin Rd. was quiet and delightful as usual. I did have to shoo off a couple of big dogs, but other than that it was its usual charming self. 



After the first climb and descent on Pinglin Rd. near the Pinglin Elementary School, I made a left up the Hua-cao Keng Farm Rd. (花草坑農路). This is a tight climb along a forested hillside that is really a spectacle... until you get to the top of the hill where someone has used it as a garbage dump. 



From the top I couple look out over the ridge to the larger hills looming on the horizon. 



I made a link to the 54-1 that dipped into one of the more remote fingers of the Liyu Reservoir. 



So much of the route was like this. A dip into a hidden gully or an arc along a a bare orchard. 



I was eventually dumped off on the Highway 3, where I plodded up the asphalt onto the Route 130. 
Although I have climbed the 130 several times. I had never taken the 56 from the lower section of the 130. I had exited there before, but never the opposite way. Therefore, I was a bit surprised by the degree of climbing I had to commit to on the eastern end. 



I chipped away at the hill and snap a picture or two as I emerged from the forest into sunlight. Then it was back into the forest for more climbing. 

The descent was a bit rough, but some parts smooth out for a good swooping drop. 

I hit the Route 49 and let gravity pull me to the base of my final climb up the 51-1 toward Sanyi. 

It is a bit of a chug to hack up that long climb into Sanyi. The gradient isn't too bad, but the hill is broad enough to make it a fair bit of work. 



I continued along the 51-1 as afternoon sunshine filtered through the gaps in the canopy above. It was completely peaceful. What a wonderful road. 



By the time I dropped out of the hills, I had been passed by no more that a dozen cars over the course of the ride. 

This is a route that will go on record as one of my all time favourites. 

This was 140km of riding from Taichung that well have been a million miles away.